One of the biggest barriers to effective progress as a rock climber, ironically, can be training in a commercial climbing gym. Oh, sure, there are good gyms around, but they’re rare and many lack certain very useful things. These things can range from lacking a good hangboard, to limited hours, to sandbagged problems, to too much cave and not enough vertical terrain (yes, I really said that).
Most rock gyms lack more than one tool. They might not even have a hangboard, might not have holds made this decade, and might be choked with people at every time you can manage to get there. These gyms are the root cause of many of the “How the %$#^^ do I train here?” emails I get. And although lack of tools can be a huge barrier to effective training, it’s no excuse. You’ve got a job to do. Don’t fall to the level of the gym you’re training in - just up your game. The following sessions and strategies are some suggestions on how to get a great training session out of any gym. These don’t fall into any particular training program - they’re more along the lines of just getting a somewhat effective session in a tough situation.