“You can practice shooting eight hours a day, but if your technique is wrong, then all you become is very good at shooting the wrong way.” - Michael Jordan
The term “training” is over-used. People refer to any and everything they do in climbing as training, yet training is a very specific act. It is repeated efforts at improving specific parameters of your fitness. Imagine “training” a dog but just randomly giving it orders with no expectation of behaviors. Organized, progressive, repeated...these are how training must be defined.
Yes, there is training for climbing. It is done in the weightroom, on the hangboard, against the clock. And although bouldering, climbing routes, and even System board work can be consideredtraining, they are reallypractice. Training is how you get stronger. Practice is how you get better.
The saying “practice makes perfect” is known to all of us, but the truth is that practice makes permanent. Simply doing something a lot doesn’t make you good at that thing. What we really need to do is practice correctly, do it a lot, and then reap the rewards. This is where my 75/25 rule comes back into play: 75% of your “training” time should really be practice time. Don’t go to the gym to get tired, go to get better.