It’s no secret that getting tired climbing is the way you get good at being tired while climbing. If your endurance repertoire involves no more than easy traversing and 4x4s, you’re missing out on some crucial adaptations that might make or break your next redpoint cycle. Sure, there are good and bad methods of building endurance, but there are a few key rules to follow to tilt your endurance training in the right direction and keep it there.
RULE 1: Train endurance after you’ve trained more skill-oriented facets of your climbing. Skills are best built fresh.
RULE 2: The more training you can sustain, the greater your potential for endurance becomes. Thus, avoid wiping yourself out too early in the session or the phase.
RULE 3: Don’t let the fatigue kill your skills. A mistake we make for years was to burn out at the end of the day with a few laps on a hard climb. Your skills are very plastic and are best at remembering the last movements you did in a session, which just happened to be flailing.