Maintaining Endurance During Power and Strength cycles

Hi Guys,

Wondering what you are recommending for maintaining endurance during strength or power training cycles? Specifics on type, duration, and mode (i.e. treadwall, etc.) will help.

G.S.


G,

Depending on what type of endurance you are trying to maintain, the recommendations can be pretty wide-ranging. If you are keeping a fairly high level of work during a strength phase, I’d say the needs for additional endurance training are minimal. Even in the most intense strength phases, I still like to see my athletes climbing 4-6 hours per week, and this usually covers endurance pretty well. I’ll go back to the 75/25 rule, where 75% of your time should be dedicated to climbing or bouldering or whatever…if you’re not getting around 15-20 pitches a week in, you are probably not going to benefit all that much from training. So, specifically, make sure that you climb at least 15 pitches (30 indoor pitches) per week in a power or strength phase. This should cover your endurance bases and make sure you don’t have too much difficulty¬†transitioning back to endurance climbing when the time comes.

 

SB