Q: I have been doing a kind of high low thing recently and was wondering how you have been doing your ARC training? I have mainly been traversing because when I do ups and downs it is hard to keep it chilled enough. How do you do it?
The hardest part about ARC training is not letting it devalue your movement. What I mean here is that the number of moves you make in an ARC workout is huge, which has a great impact on your motor planning and development. Do lots of sloppy moves, learn to move that way. I think it is critical to force yourself to use challenging moves, footholds, body positions, etc. If this means having to set or memorize particular problems or routes, you should take the time to do so.
I hear you on the difficulty of going up and down the wall. Many people I talk to get really worked downclimbing – I think our technique sort of craps out on the downclimb end of things so we trash our arms. You might work toward slight up and down traverses as a compromise.
I’ve also seen people get lazy toward the end of an ARC set and, again, get sloppy. We prevent this by doing short sets at first, such as doing 10-10-10 minutes instead of trying for 30 all at once. This also helps “bring you back” if you are getting anaerobic on the efforts. This stuff has got to be easy – you’ll make a ton more progress by going a little too easy than a little too hard.