Programming

Developmental and Maintenance Loads

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel We can train to improve or train to hold our ground. This is an important distinction, and one worth keeping in mind when you are training. Most of us think only in terms of trying to get better – to push more weight, to hold smaller crimps, etc. Most of us think…

What Does it Mean to Hire a Coach?

Tags: , ,

By Steve Bechtel –  I never wanted to be a coach, I only wanted to be better. I wanted so badly to get rid of the fat around my middle and get past the feeling of not being able to hold on any longer, that as a high school student I read every book I…

Accountability Partners

Tags: , ,

by Charlie Manganiello You know that obnoxious poster you might see in a telemarketer call station. You know the one. The poster says “TEAMWORK” in blocky letters under a photo of someone being helped to the summit of a mountain by another climber. The sun is setting, their hands are reaching out to one another,…

Justin Iskra, Zach Snavely Demonstrate the Brettzel Stretch in Climb Strong Class, B&W

Recovery Points – Challenging Youth Athletes to Recover Well

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel A little while back, I wrote an article about Recovery Training, where I tried to underscore the idea that you should take your recovery as seriously as you do your climbing and training. We all love to add and add and add to our training in hopes that somehow the throttling will…

Pendulum Plans

Tags: , ,

By Steve Bechtel Program design is complex. Figuring out how to arrive at the weekend fresh for climbing is tough enough, let alone building a high peak for a trip or competition. For years, climbers have tested out different versions of periodized programs, mostly stolen from track and field or weightlifting. In typical periodized plans,…

Quality Over Quantity

Tags: ,

by Charlie Manganiello   Where were you when you first heard the phrase “quality over quantity?”  I was in Mrs. Joyce’s art class. I must have been in 7th or 8th grade. The classroom was tucked away down along a hallway that was dark except for a few flickering fluorescent lights. I remember actually being…

Advancing Training Load

Tags: , ,

If you haven’t heard by now, the way you get better at doing harder things is to do harder things. If you are constantly playing it safe, building volume, and avoiding discomfort, well guess what – you’d better get used to doing the same routes over and over again. For those who want to advance,…

Fundamentals of Program Design

Tags: , , ,

It has never been a better time to be a performance-oriented rock climber. In the past few years there has been an explosion of good information on training, and a huge number of great tools to help you train. From better handhold designs, to improved hangboards, to ingenious tools such as the Tension Block, we…

Sequencing of Training

Tags: , ,

By Steve Bechtel It’s easy to get stuck in a week-to-week rut of doing the same training over and over again, with very little purposeful structure aimed at actually progressing our ability. In truth, progress can and does happen somewhat accidentally – you keep going out to the crag and spend a whole day, so…

Breaking Plateaus in Bouldering

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel As much as we like to think we are training when we hit the bouldering gym, most of us are performing or even just exercising. Remember that training is planned and progressed and controlled carefully in order to achieve desired results. Performance is all about showing what your training has produced. In…

7 Habits of Highly Successful Climbers

Tags: , ,

The last few years have seen a big focus on training for climbing and a great interest in the specific methods top athletes use to improve their strength and conditioning. Although this has been good overall, I still go back to the belief that strength and endurance should be the last thing you worry about…

Triangle of Constraints

The 90 Percent That Matters

Tags: , ,

By Steve Bechtel You wouldn’t read this if you didn’t want to get better at climbing. Many of us are on a constant search for a new training program, a new tool, a secret formula that somehow someone figured out that makes it all easy. Getting better isn’t complex, it’s simple. It’s simple, not easy….

Site Search

Categories