Motivation and Tactics

Why and How We Train the Core

Tags: , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel   It’s no secret that I’m not a fan of “abs” in a workout, but I’m not a fan of not having a strong midsection, either. Confused? Me too. The core musculature can, and should, include about anything that is attached to the hips.  We include: The rectus abdominis The transversus abdominis…

Watch: Redpoint Tactics #3 – Be Selfish

Tags: , , , , ,

Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 3 of…

Watch: Redpoint Tactics #2 – Get Creative

Tags: , , , , ,

Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 2 of…

Watch: Redpoint Tactics #1 – Have a Plan

Tags: , , , , ,

Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 1 of…

BLOG: Where Training Begins

Tags: , , , , ,

  By Steve Bechtel This is how it goes: You go to the gym with friends and you do some easy climbs and it’s fun. Then you try a harder one or two, and maybe almost do them. Your hands are sore that night and as you fall asleep you’re thinking of how you nearly…

Watch: Program Design

Tags: , , , , ,

Many climbers and coaches think about designing a training cycle for themselves or an athlete and the first thing that comes to mind is the exercises they will program. This is intuitive and it makes sense why you would think to start there, but is completely backwards. In this video Steve lays out the four…

Once More Unto The Breach

Tags: , , ,

By Steve Bechtel The last thing I want to think about again today is getting older. I don’t really like to talk about it and I certainly don’t like doing it. But for me, and probably for you, the worse alternative is getting old quickly. As I look at the people I grew up with,…

Watch: In-Season Fitness

Tags: , , , , ,

We can train to improve or train to hold our ground. This is an important distinction, and one worth keeping in mind when you are training. Most of us think only in terms of trying to get better – to push more weight, to hold smaller crimps, etc. Most of us think in terms of…

Watch: Fundamentalist Programming

Tags: , , , , ,

In the last decade or so the climbing world has become absolutely saturated with information on training practices. It is super confusing to figure out how to train effectively and how to balance this with your climbing. Everyone wants to know what is the “best” way to train, and our answer has always been the…

Watch: Introduction to Drill Work

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Skill development is fundamental to progression in climbing. Too often, we focus on building stamina, physical strength, or power, when just learning to move better is the simple-and long lasting-solution. In this video, Climb Strong Coach Alex Bridgewater outlines methods for successful drill sessions. This is a very useful framework for coaches designing programs and…

Watch: Specificity or Simulation?

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Climbing is a remarkably diverse sport. The demands of a three move boulder problem are much different than those of a 20-hour alpine ridge traverse. As such, specificity should be a pillar of our training for rock climbing. At its most basic, specificity means training that simulates the sport. But it can be broken down…

Watch: Session Variability

Tags: , , , , ,

If you’re stuck, it’s probably not detailing out a more complex workout that is going to get you unstuck. It’s going to be doing simple things better. Most of us like the idea that each session we do is a developmental session. We seek out physical markers of having worked hard, such as sweat, weak…

Site Search

Categories