Programming

6 Takeaways From Coaching Youth Climbers (That Every Rock Climber Needs to Hear)

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By Ken Klein Coaching youth climbers is the most rewarding work I have done in my life. It just so happens that it may also be the most exhausting as well. When I started coaching Team Whetstone in Fort Collins, Colorado, there were 17 kids on the team. When I left that count had jumped…

What Got You Here? Do You Even Know?

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By Steve Bechtel Maybe this was a really good year and you sent a project or two. Or maybe it was more like my year last year and you weren’t all that happy with how things went. The biggest question to ask, in either situation is this: “What did I do that led me to…

Watch: Better Training Logs

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Training requires overload within the framework of both the session and the training cycle. If you don’t carefully plan overload session to session, you probably won’t see the progress you could. Just getting tired in the gym isn’t the answer. Pushing the loads the right amount higher and recovering correctly is how you really get…

Some Specifics about Specificity

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By Ty Mack A Cautionary Tale My good friend and longtime climbing partner Kirk Billings used to spend his winters bouldering in Hueco Tanks and cooking at Todd Skinner’s training compound. He got to climb with many of the top climbers of the era and witness all manner of novel approaches to climbing and training….

Watch: Breaking Mental Barriers

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Mental skills training is often overlooked by climbers but they are incredibly important to unlock an athlete’s full potential, along with cultivating a healthy relationship with an individuals climbing. In this video Alex discusses how to break through mental barriers to climbing performance. Article: Athletic Identity: Complexity of the “Iceberg” https://tinyurl.com/yfj22a47 Book: Psychology of Enhancing…

The Rapture of Performance

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By Micah Elconin The season is changing. As temps drop and days shorten, I feel a sense of urgency ignite inside me. It’s performance season.  For better or worse, cool dry air tends to make rock a bit stickier. So most of us count on the Fall for creating conditions that support big goals. Yet,…

Planning For The Off-Season

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By Steve Bechtel It seems weird to start looking at time off from outdoor climbing right in the middle of the outdoor season, but I think it is more and more essential to come into each season-even the off-season or training season-with a solid plan to help you get the most out of it.  When…

Watch: Specific Trip Prep

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All too often we train extensively for a climbing trip to a new area, have big plans for performing at a high level, and then fall short of our goals. Where do we go wrong in our preparation for these trips? In this video Steve lays out a framework to train in a way that…

Watch: Tension Techniques

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Tension is King. In climbing or strength training the ability to generate tension is critical to perform hard movements or lifts, and avoid injury. Everyone generates tension naturally to some degree while performing difficult movements, but many fail to correctly engage all of the muscles they could through intentional practice. In this video Charlie will…

Watch: Integrated Strength

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Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise – focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops. Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to solve this problem. Many programs are more or less stolen from…

Partnership

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By Micah Elconin Whether you like it or not, climbing is generally a social activity. Someone has to hold the other end of the rope for those redpoint attempts and my guess is you’d rather have a few extra pads and a spot when topping out that high boulder problem.   Finding a climbing partner can…

Watch: Goal Setting Part 2

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The majority of climbers have goals, but not many have a framework that will lay out a path to succeed at ambitious, long-term objectives – even though almost all of us have them! In this video Alex discusses how to structure your goal setting so you have have a clear pathway to your short term,…

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