Route Climbing Training Plans

Aerobic Capacity Training Plan 2A – 6 Week

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“To increase endurance, you don’t need Tabatas. You definitely don’t need Tabatas.” Pavel Tsatsouline Endurance is like money. If you don’t use a lot, you don’t need a lot. You just need enough to stay ahead of your goals. Most importantly, you never want to spend it faster than you can sustain it, or you’ll…

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Aerobic Capacity 1B – 6 week

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“You talk a lot about how easy it is to ramp up your endurance,” he said. “For me it’s not that easy. It seems like it takes months to build a decent base and then all my power is gone. What am I doing wrong?” I had almost the exact same conversation twice in a…

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Max Sport Climbing, Looking for Next Move

Progressing Endurance Training II

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by Steve Bechtel You’ve tried ARC training and you’ve done your share of 4x4s, so why do you still come peeling off the wall just before you reach the anchors? What is it about your energy system development that isn’t working? It might be that you aren’t progressing your sessions, or it might be that…

Angled View of Campus Board, Photo By Mei Ratz

Advances in How We Look at Density Training

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by Steve Bechtel When you look at intensifying training, there are really just a few ways to make it happen, each having a different result. You can increase the volume of training, such as doing more total pitches in a climbing day. You can increase the intensity of the training, such as trying to do…

Close Up Image of Campus Board B&W, Photo by Mei Ratz

Progressing Endurance Training I

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By Steve Bechtel The email subject line read “Help!!” Opening it, I saw no fewer than 20 paragraphs describing how the sender wasn’t sending despite “religiously” following one of the plans I’d put together. There was no doubt, the climber was training. It was clear she was training hard and adding difficulty to her sessions.…

Chris’s Climbing Endurance Plan

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By Steve Bechtel It’s hard to write a specific plan for any facet of training, especially if you’re trying to target more than one athlete. There are just too many variables. A few years back, I wrote a short article on endurance training (Endurance 3.0) that explained how we look at training endurance for climbers.…

Rob Pizem, working for the first free ascent of the Frank Zappa Appreciation Society, 5.13+, Escalanta Canyon, CO

Running Away From Redpointing

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By Steve Bechtel Since the dawn of time, man has been obsessed with finding an easier way to get past hard work. Wonderful things like the wheel, the incline plane, and the internal combustion engine have helped us get past the drudgery and pain of too much tedium and work for too little reward. Much…

route climbing b&w

Endurance 3.0

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by Steve Bechtel Of all the facets of training for climbing, I think training for endurance is the most controversial and misunderstood. Most of us agree that a hangboard is the best way to build finger strength and that bouldering on an indoor wall is a good way to build power, but what about endurance?…

Another Way To Endure

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By Steve Bechtel Endurance training comes in many forms and it can be argued that any climbing you do that makes you tired makes you better at enduring fatigue. As I’ve said before, most climbers who boulder indoors are, in fact, training endurance when they think they’re training power. Problem is, they are training an…

Alex Bridgewater Demonstrates a 1Arm Hang Lock Off

Introduction to Density Training

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By Steve Bechtel You either boulder or do routes, right? So what happens when you want to get ready for routes by bouldering? You end up feeling like you’re not quite training right, and you’re correct. We have several good ways of training beyond the boulder problem, but training with a repeatable workout and definable…

Cowboy Up

4x4s and Other Variants for Training

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By Steve Bechtel It was probably about 25 years ago – we were mid-session in the bouldering gym and someone suggested we do some “4x4s.” At first I thought this had something to do with the lumber of the same name, but in climbing, this is simply four sets of four boulder problems done back-to-back.…

Systems board hand, b&w, Photo by Mei Ratz

Rhythm Intervals Revisited

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by Steve Bechtel There are a hundred methods of training endurance for climbing. Rather than going on a rant and bashing all the bad ways people use to get some more juice, let me tell you about one good one that even a boulderer can get his head around. If you don’t relish the idea…

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