Endurance Training
Aerobic Capacity Training Plan 2A – 6 Week
Tags: aerobic endurance, Anaerobic Endurance, High Low, muscular endurance, Training Plans
“To increase endurance, you don’t need Tabatas. You definitely don’t need Tabatas.” Pavel Tsatsouline Endurance is like money. If you don’t use a lot, you don’t need a lot. You just need enough to stay ahead of your goals. Most importantly, you never want to spend it faster than you can sustain it, or you’ll…
Aerobic Capacity 1B – 6 week
Tags: capacity, Endurance, Work Capacity
“You talk a lot about how easy it is to ramp up your endurance,” he said. “For me it’s not that easy. It seems like it takes months to build a decent base and then all my power is gone. What am I doing wrong?” I had almost the exact same conversation twice in a…
Progressing Endurance Training II
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Intervals, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
by Steve Bechtel You’ve tried ARC training and you’ve done your share of 4x4s, so why do you still come peeling off the wall just before you reach the anchors? What is it about your energy system development that isn’t working? It might be that you aren’t progressing your sessions, or it might be that…
Progressing Endurance Training I
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Intervals, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel The email subject line read “Help!!” Opening it, I saw no fewer than 20 paragraphs describing how the sender wasn’t sending despite “religiously” following one of the plans I’d put together. There was no doubt, the climber was training. It was clear she was training hard and adding difficulty to her sessions….
Chris’s Climbing Endurance Plan
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Endurance, Fatigue, Intervals, Linked Problems, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel It’s hard to write a specific plan for any facet of training, especially if you’re trying to target more than one athlete. There are just too many variables. A few years back, I wrote a short article on endurance training (Endurance 3.0) that explained how we look at training endurance for climbers….
Running Away From Redpointing
Tags: Alpine Training, Endurance, Fatigue, Running, Weight Loss
By Steve Bechtel Since the dawn of time, man has been obsessed with finding an easier way to get past hard work. Wonderful things like the wheel, the incline plane, and the internal combustion engine have helped us get past the drudgery and pain of too much tedium and work for too little reward. Much…
Endurance 3.0
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance, Intervals, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
by Steve Bechtel Of all the facets of training for climbing, I think training for endurance is the most controversial and misunderstood. Most of us agree that a hangboard is the best way to build finger strength and that bouldering on an indoor wall is a good way to build power, but what about endurance?…
Unlearning “Endurance” Training
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Endurance, Intervals, Power Endurance, Pump
By Steve Bechtel I think I’ve been to a dozen different crags where I’ve seen some dude doing toprope laps on a route he’s got totally wired to “train endurance” at the end of the day. The thing is, this guy has been doing the same thing for years, and getting nowhere. It’s not that…
Route Climbing Endurance 2
Tags: ARC, Intensive Endurance, Pre-Season, Route Climbing, Route Repeats, Training Plans
Once you’re strong, then next most important facet to train for hard redpointing is your aerobic capacity, or endurance base as it’s sometimes called. For the past 20 years or so, climbers have participated in Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity (ARC) sessions to address this need. Although ARC training can be of great benefit to many…
Route Climbing Endurance 1
Tags: Circuits, Extensive Endurance, Route Climbing, Stamina, Training, Training Plans
The route climbing endurance plans are built around developing sustained power outputs for long duration. These marry the needs of most climbers, and neither focus on strength-endurance nor on the low-end and recovery-heavy training of pure endurance climbing. This program features maintenance of strength through weekly bouldering and maintenance-level finger strength training. The bulk of…