Performance Training
Route Climbing Performance 1
Tags: ARC, Contrast Bouldering, Redpointing, Repeaters, Training Plans
There are a lot of good climbing exercises out there, and there are a ton of fun climbing gyms, so why don’t we see better progress from most climbers? I don’t think it’s a lack of a good facility, nor a lack of knowledge of exercises. I think it’s a lack of practical application of…
In-Season Strength – Program Minimum
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, Performance, Programming, redpoint climbing, Resistance Training, Route Climbing
These days, climbers are well aware of the need to gain strength in the off-season. Many climbers I hear from spend much of the winter allocating time to the weight room and the hangboard. Where the system can break down is when someone quits strength training cold-turkey to switch to climbing full-time. There’s no arguing…
Bridge Season Training
Tags: Conditioning, Finger Strength, Linked Problems, Peaking, Performance, Route Climbing, Training Plans
A “bridge” is a high-intensity training program that links two close-together peaks of fitness. Frequently, we see climbers ramp-up for the summer season, only to see fitness drift off after a month or so. This comes as no surprise to coaches and physiologists, as it is simply a result of too much intensity too soon…
414 Redpoint Training Plan
Tags: Bouldering, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance, Route Climbing, Training Plans
I have written extensively in articles about the limitations of normal periodized climbing training plans, as well as the clear limits of “just going climbing.” Somewhere in the magic space between lies the Shangri-La of climbing training programs. I can’t say that I have found it, but as we continue the discussion and experimentation, we…