Strength Endurance Training
Advances in How We Look at Density Training
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Conditioning, Density Training, Intervals, Load Density, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
by Steve Bechtel When you look at intensifying training, there are really just a few ways to make it happen, each having a different result. You can increase the volume of training, such as doing more total pitches in a climbing day. You can increase the intensity of the training, such as trying to do…
Rhythm Intervals Revisited
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, Intervals, Power Endurance, Rhythm Intervals, Strength Endurance
by Steve Bechtel There are a hundred methods of training endurance for climbing. Rather than going on a rant and bashing all the bad ways people use to get some more juice, let me tell you about one good one that even a boulderer can get his head around. If you don’t relish the idea…
Get Rhythm
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, Intervals, Power Endurance, Rhythm Intervals, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel There are a hundred methods of training endurance for climbing. Rather than going on a rant and bashing all the bad ways people use to get some more juice, let me tell you about one good one that even a boulderer can get his head around. If you don’t relish the idea…
“Tolerance” Training
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, Intervals, Linked Problems, Power Endurance, Rhythm Intervals, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel You’re strong, no doubt. You’re way stronger in the gym than most of the guys you climb with at the crag, but they routinely burn you off out there. There’s gotta be something they have figured out that you haven’t. What they have that you don’t is tolerance. “Tolerance” is the ability…
Another Way To Endure
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Circuits, Intervals, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel Endurance training comes in many forms and it can be argued that any climbing you do that makes you tired makes you better at enduring fatigue. As I’ve said before, most climbers who boulder indoors are, in fact, training endurance when they think they’re training power. Problem is, they are training an…
Introduction to Density Training
Tags: Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Conditioning, Density Training, Intervals, Load Density, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel You either boulder or do routes, right? So what happens when you want to get ready for routes by bouldering? You end up feeling like you’re not quite training right, and you’re correct. We have several good ways of training beyond the boulder problem, but training with a repeatable workout and definable…
4x4s and Other Variants for Training
Tags: 4x4s, Anaerobic Endurance, ARC, Conditioning, Intervals, Linked Problems, Power Endurance, Strength Endurance
By Steve Bechtel It was probably about 25 years ago – we were mid-session in the bouldering gym and someone suggested we do some “4x4s.” At first I thought this had something to do with the lumber of the same name, but in climbing, this is simply four sets of four boulder problems done back-to-back….
The High-Low Plan
Tags: Endurance, High Low, Power Endurance, Route Climbing, Strength, Training Plans
The Plan This training program is designed for route climbers working on redpointing higher grades. This is the style of plan most of our climbers started using back in 2010 or so, featuring significantly reduced power-endurance training. The idea comes from the training plans designed by the legendary Charlie Francis, widely considered to be the…
The Simplest Climbing Training Plan
Tags: ARC, Bouldering, Intensive Endurance, Pre-Season, Route Climbing, Route Repeats, Training Plans
This program features a three week alternating cycle, aimed at keeping you close to top form for long cycles. Motivated athletes are more successful; if you need some down-time between phases, this is not the plan for you.For years, a large percentage of my emails from the climbers on this site have been about periodization…
Route Climbing Strength-Endurance 1
Tags: Hangboard, Intervals, Power Endurance, Redpointing
This is a 6-week plan for climbers looking to maximize Strength-Endurance for short crux sequences and long boulder problems. There are no specific days assigned to these workouts, nor rest days specified. Just plan on doing the workouts in the order written, and rest as necessary. Week 1- For week 1, you want to…