Training

Why and How We Train the Core

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By Steve Bechtel   It’s no secret that I’m not a fan of “abs” in a workout, but I’m not a fan of not having a strong midsection, either. Confused? Me too. The core musculature can, and should, include about anything that is attached to the hips.  We include: The rectus abdominis The transversus abdominis…

Execution Volume 3: The Path to Being The Best Climber You Can Be

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  by Jacob Carr   Action. This Is The Way. Now that you have a framework on how to attack a project-level route and a way to practice execution in the gym you can now put them into practice and allow yourself to perform on the rock. You can act on what you want. You…

Once More Unto The Breach

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By Steve Bechtel The last thing I want to think about again today is getting older. I don’t really like to talk about it and I certainly don’t like doing it. But for me, and probably for you, the worse alternative is getting old quickly. As I look at the people I grew up with,…

Fundamentals Of Drill Sessions

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By Alex Bridgewater  I work with an athlete that has had some recurring issues with his fingers. He is a strong boulderer and despite his efforts to keep his fingers up to snuff, he often would develop some sort of joint inflammation that would set him back. For a while we would drop back on…

Hard To Kill

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by Ty Vineyard Your fitness may be the difference between failure and success, or even life and death. Many do not think about this, even athletes who consistently train. SOF Operators, mountain guides, firefighters, and many other professionals highlight the importance of being “hard to kill.” Consistently operating in high consequence environments demands an approach…

Execution Vol 2: Developing Responsibility for Yourself

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by Jacob Carr The next step in execution will refer to your tactics around redpoint climbing. How do you spend your time at the crag? You can handle an undirected crag day by learning how to take responsibility for yourself and what you accomplish on a given climbing day. This means, deciding what your intentions…

Execution Vol 1: Better People Make Better Climbers

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by Jacob Carr I get the hunch that most climbers, if they were asked, would rather not train for climbing. Ever. If they could, they would be the best version of themselves on the rock by just climbing, no hangboarding-only redpointing flawlessly. If you’ve read anything by Steve Bechtel you’ve probably heard him say, “If…

Rachel’s Momentum Drills

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By Rachel Speer I’ll be the very first one to admit it: I hate dynos. I would much prefer to figure out a way to do a move statically, even if it takes ten times the energy and strength than it would to just… for lack of a better word… yeet myself up the wall….

Optimizing First Gear: Training The Alactic Energy System

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By Steve Bechtel Anyone who has been in sports for very long has probably heard of the energy systems, or the ways in which our bodies supply energy. When we run down a road for an hour, we are producing energy from a different source than when we pick up a heavy barbell. And when…

New Year, Different Resolution

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by Jacob Carr Welcome to the new year! Congratulations on setting your new resolution, it is no small task to think about resolutions, goals, etc. let alone setting and executing them. One of the things I love about setting aside time for these types of actions is that it provides us time to reflect and…

Some Specifics about Specificity

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By Ty Mack A Cautionary Tale My good friend and longtime climbing partner Kirk Billings used to spend his winters bouldering in Hueco Tanks and cooking at Todd Skinner’s training compound. He got to climb with many of the top climbers of the era and witness all manner of novel approaches to climbing and training….

The Rapture of Performance

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By Micah Elconin The season is changing. As temps drop and days shorten, I feel a sense of urgency ignite inside me. It’s performance season.  For better or worse, cool dry air tends to make rock a bit stickier. So most of us count on the Fall for creating conditions that support big goals. Yet,…

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