Training

Stability versus balance, an upside-down pyramid

Mobility and Stability, A Primer

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel …or “why you should stop doing everything else until you get this.” Mobility and stability is probably the most important training a climber can do away from the crag is to injury-proof himself. This can include a whole host of treatments, but for the average joe, it means training joint mobility and stability….

Brad Hilbert Bouldering, image courtesy of Butora USA

Introduction to Training for Bouldering

Tags: , , , , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel Bouldering is exactly the same as rock climbing, except that it’s way harder. In an attempt to do this way harder sport, we often employ rock climbing training programs, yet they don’t quite work. This article is intended to highlight these differences, provide an introduction to bouldering training, and suggest an alternative…

Climbing Shoes and Backpack, Photo by Mei Ratz

Call it What You Want, Periodized Training Works

Tags: , , , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel I get a ton of questions about whether periodization is effective. The answer, unequivocally, is yes, periodized training works. The confusion comes in that many climbers don’t really know what periodization is. In fact, many climbing coaches read an article or two about classic periodization models (i.e. Bompa or Matveyev) and they…

Charlie Manganiello kettlebell swing

40 Workouts, 8 Weeks

Tags: , , , , ,

by Charlie Manganiello SFG II Is Your Strength Glass Half-Full or Half-Empty? 40 Workouts – 8 Weeks… It’s so easy you won’t do it. Disclaimer:  I did not invent this. I plucked this gem out of a book called Easy Strength written by Dan John and Pavel Tsatsouline. I know, they sound like strong dudes,…

Hand Pulling on Resistance Band B&W, Photo by Mei Ratz

More On Periodization

Tags: , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel I remember the first time I learned about classical periodization plans. The whole idea of planning out my training according to easily defined phases which would lead to spectacular results appealed to the eternally plateaued climber in me much the way x-ray specs appealed to me as a nine-year-old. I tried a…

less is more

Less is More – One Reason Your Training Plan is Failing

Tags: , , ,

By Steve Bechtel Some people train so that they can climb better. I am convinced, though, that some people train so that they can make up cool spreadsheets and obsess over numbers. They start to lose touch with the basic rules of training, and add, add, add more stuff until they don’t have any room…

power bouldering, image courtesy of Butora USA

Strength and Power Sessions for Bouldering

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel Training for bouldering is a little bit different than just bouldering. I submit that just bouldering itself is great for getting good at the sport, just as going running is a good way to get ready for a 5k. As you know, though, top runners don’t “just run.” In order to develop…

Minimalist training, 3 Kettlebells on the floor, B&W, Photo by Mei Ratz

Minimalist Training

Tags: , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel Minimalist training has been around in some form or other for years. And when I talk about minimalist training, I’m not just talking about doing jack shit and calling it good enough. I’m talking about doing the minimum necessary training to see continued progress. Undoubtedly, doing more of a particular thing works…

Charlie Manganiello deadlift set-up

Strength Training for Rock Climbing (Part 2)

Tags: , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel In part one of this article, I talked about why many climbers should consider supplementing their climbing-specific training with resistance training. In this article, I’ll talk about how. First, let me say that I think resistance training is terribly misunderstood and misused by climbers. When we talk about strength training with weights…

KB Wall b&w

Strength Training for Rock Climbing (Part 1)

Tags: , , ,

By Steve Bechtel   Although rock climbing is my favorite sport, my day job is that of a strength coach. At our facility, we train athletes of all walks of life, and the majority of what we do is strength training with weights. We also have a climbing gym at our facility, and we often…

Site Search

Categories