Training

V-Sum Question – Problem Completion

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Are failed sends counted? Today I did my warm up and then: v4, v4, v5, v5,v4, 3 attempts at 2 different V5, V4, 2 attempts at a v5, 2xV4. The attempts get me to or just past the crux and are only 1 or 2 moves short of completion. I am targeting overall intensity for…

I don’t understand the 3-6-9 Hangboard Ladders. How much load? How much should I rest?

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I don’t describe a loading progression in the hangboard ladders because I think it should happen somewhat organically. I have found that time after time climber want to progress the loads on the board much more quickly than they should, and it is almost guaranteed that a finger injury occurs in the last week of…

Work Capacity – Climbing Hard All Day Long (part 1)

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By Steve Bechtel Most of the articles I write are aimed at improving performance in single-pitch rock climbing. Understandably, there are big questions when it comes to converting your single-pitch fitness into longer efforts such as big walls or alpine routes. When it comes to performing at a high level for a long day or…

Bouldering Toe Hook

Training Programs for Bouldering – Advanced

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By Steve Bechtel I was reluctant to release this training plan, and here’s why: I don’t think more than a handful of the climbers that will read this plan really need this plan. I have released training plans for novices and intermediate level climbers and I believe these plans are better plans for almost every…

Alex Bridgewater on Campus Board, Photo by Mei Ratz

Superpower

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By Steve Bechtel We like to talk about power in climbing, and we like to think of ourselves as training “power” when we boulder, but is that really what we’re doing? The most powerful athletes in the world compete in activities lasting fewer than ten seconds. The athletes I am talking about are Olympic lifters…

Justin Iskra, Zach Snavely Demonstrate the Brettzel Stretch in Climb Strong Class, B&W

Introductory Hip Mobility Drills

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by Steve Bechtel If you want to see the damage that a desk job can do, teach squats to a group of adults. Many of us spend our days sitting at a desk, drive in a car for an hour or more, sit on the couch for a couple of hours, then curl up in…

Stability versus balance, an upside-down pyramid

Mobility and Stability, A Primer

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By Steve Bechtel …or “why you should stop doing everything else until you get this.” Mobility and stability is probably the most important training a climber can do away from the crag is to injury-proof himself. This can include a whole host of treatments, but for the average joe, it means training joint mobility and stability….

Minimalist training, 3 Kettlebells on the floor, B&W, Photo by Mei Ratz

Minimalist Training

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By Steve Bechtel Minimalist training has been around in some form or other for years. And when I talk about minimalist training, I’m not just talking about doing jack shit and calling it good enough. I’m talking about doing the minimum necessary training to see continued progress. Undoubtedly, doing more of a particular thing works…

Brad Hilbert Bouldering, image courtesy of Butora USA

Introduction to Training for Bouldering

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By Steve Bechtel Bouldering is exactly the same as rock climbing, except that it’s way harder. In an attempt to do this way harder sport, we often employ rock climbing training programs, yet they don’t quite work. This article is intended to highlight these differences, provide an introduction to bouldering training, and suggest an alternative…

Climbing Shoes and Backpack, Photo by Mei Ratz

Call it What You Want, Periodized Training Works

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By Steve Bechtel I get a ton of questions about whether periodization is effective. The answer, unequivocally, is yes, periodized training works. The confusion comes in that many climbers don’t really know what periodization is. In fact, many climbing coaches read an article or two about classic periodization models (i.e. Bompa or Matveyev) and they…

Charlie Manganiello kettlebell swing

40 Workouts, 8 Weeks

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by Charlie Manganiello SFG II Is Your Strength Glass Half-Full or Half-Empty? 40 Workouts – 8 Weeks… It’s so easy you won’t do it. Disclaimer:  I did not invent this. I plucked this gem out of a book called Easy Strength written by Dan John and Pavel Tsatsouline. I know, they sound like strong dudes,…

Hand Pulling on Resistance Band B&W, Photo by Mei Ratz

More On Periodization

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By Steve Bechtel I remember the first time I learned about classical periodization plans. The whole idea of planning out my training according to easily defined phases which would lead to spectacular results appealed to the eternally plateaued climber in me much the way x-ray specs appealed to me as a nine-year-old. I tried a…

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