Training

Planning For The Off-Season

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By Steve Bechtel It seems weird to start looking at time off from outdoor climbing right in the middle of the outdoor season, but I think it is more and more essential to come into each season-even the off-season or training season-with a solid plan to help you get the most out of it.  When…

Rachel’s Body Tension Drills

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By Rachel Speer Imagine this: you’re climbing on an overhang, gather up your strength and lob for the next hold that puts you in just a bit of a stretched position. You successfully grab the hold, but before you can even begin to move on, your hips sag away from the wall and you find…

Partnership

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By Micah Elconin Whether you like it or not, climbing is generally a social activity. Someone has to hold the other end of the rope for those redpoint attempts and my guess is you’d rather have a few extra pads and a spot when topping out that high boulder problem.   Finding a climbing partner can…

Maybe We’re Approaching Power Wrong

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By Steve Bechtel It might be semantics, but it might also be a trap. When we throw around the terms we use in training for climbing, the word “power” gets used a lot. The problem is that although power is a performance metric, we struggle to build training that directly addresses it. Thus, when we…

Build Big Endurance With 3:2 Intervals

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By Steve Bechtel If you have been training for climbing very long, you’ve probably come across the idea of doing some kind of interval in order to help improve your endurance. Even a person that is totally focused on bouldering is going to need to tap into their ability to endure longer durations of power…

Resting on Routes

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By Chrissy Vadovszki As a climber transitions into more challenging sport or trad climbs, the need for better habits and tactics around optimal resting on routes arises. These thoughts and ideas can be applied to longer boulders (not to exclude the pebble wrestlers among us), as well as onsighting or flashing climbs. However, we will…

Becoming the Practitioner

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By Micah Elconin “What is the difference between practicing and being a practitioner?” Ido Portal poses this question in a recent blog posted to his youtube channel. Ido teaches a system of physical training that he calls “movement culture.” His methods pull from a variety of sources integrating the martial arts, yoga, dance, strength training,…

Sixteen: An Odyssey Into Endurance

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By Steve Bechtel Training sessions have a way of being sneaky when we look at them on paper. We look at something like “5×5 at 80%” and it doesn’t seem all that hard. Nor does “4 pitches at 2nd tier.” Nor does “Do five pull-ups. Add two per day for 30 days.” Much like the…

Doing > Talking

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by Ty Vineyard Take inventory of where you are now. This takes a lot of discipline and humility. The amount of accountability required to express true capability without excuses is carried out by few. Be realistic, do not overextend yourself for the sake of appearing more capable than you are. We see it at both…

When Climbing Feels Out of Reach

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by Philip Sabado The end of 2019 was a year of great climbing for me. I felt gains in my training with Climb Strong and I was breaking through a long plateau.  But when the pandemic hit, all hell broke loose, which forced every single climber to adjust their climbing and training. I grew frustrated…

A Cause to Visualize

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 “I visualized all the moves the night before. It’s about 400 Moves In total. You have to keep all of that in your mind, add endless footholds. It was no surprise that I didn’t sleep that well that night. I was nervous and certainly felt some pressure.” – Babsi Zangerl   The use of visualization…

Periodization – Planning a Realistic Year of Training

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There is a BIG difference between exercising and training. Exercising is fine, but if you want to see progress as an athlete, training is what you are looking for. Don’t confuse random exercise with training. Proper training involves a plan with progressive overload, leading to new levels of strength and fitness over time. Periodization is…

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