Training
Polar Skills
Tags: drills, Movement, Rachel Speer, Skills
By Rachel Speer When I first started climbing, I learned quickly how to balance my body on the wall, I got stronger, and I rocketed through the grades, improving rapidly. For a few years I coasted on the easy gains until I came upon my first plateau, at the upper end of the 5.11 range. …
Get Strong Using Reps In Reserve
Tags: Jacob Carr, Planning, Reps in Reserve, Strength
by Jacob Carr When thinking about our strength workouts, we often aim for a specific rep range or rate of perceived exertion (RPE) at a specific load. This is a tried and true method of strength training, and when put into practice can produce great strength results. I recently had an athlete struggling to make…
Train Like You (Should) Eat
Tags: Micah Elconin, Nutrition, Planning
by Micah Elconin Long before my career coaching rock climbers, I worked as a private chef. My niche was healthy cooking and menu planning for those on restricted diets. I worked with all sorts of clients. From those battling cancer to the rich and famous, I developed and prepared menus that fit the specific wants,…
Injuries: Probably Not Your First Rodeo, Nor Your Last
Tags: AJ Sobrilsky, climbing injuries, Injury Prevention, planning and progression
by AJ Sobrilsky As a climber, coach, and physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers and mountain athletes I half heartedly joke that there are 3 guarantees in life: death, taxes, and injuries. I’ve yet to meet any athlete, new or seasoned in the sport, that hasn’t endured some level of physical complaint or…
