Strength
Foundational Bouldering (or Why Being a Novice is a Good Thing)
Tags: Bouldering, Bouldering Training, Novice Training
One of the great blunders of training is over-complication. It goes like this: You get interested in getting better so you go to the gym a bit and you get a little stronger and you get psyched and so you read about training and you get inspired to try some more stuff and you keep…
Foundation Strength: What You Do All The Time
Tags: foundation, Planning, Strength
When people train, they generally fall into two categories: The ones who get in shape a month or two before “the season.” The ones who “train” all the time at about the same intensity. It’s likely the most effective program is in some sweet spot in between. We are learning that there are certain things…
Developing General Grip Strength
Tags: Finger Strength, finger training, Grip Strength, grip training
In the old days, training “specifically” for climbing was almost unheard of. You either just climbed or you were one of the few climbers who trained in the weight room and did some door jamb pull-ups. Over the years, things changed. As climbs got hard and more physically challenging we sought out ways to beat…
Integrated Strength
Tags: Finger Strength, foundation, Hangboard, integrated strength
Combining Hangboard and Weight Training for Maximum Climbing Strength Introduction Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise – focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops. Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to…
Advances in Core Training
Tags: abs, Core Strength, Specific Strength
This is not the first article on “core” training I have written, but I felt the need to expand on the previous ones and to highlight what we are doing in our current programs. In general, the way we look at training the midsection has not changed, but over the past couple of years we’ve…
Variations on Integrated Strength
Tags: Circuits, Finger Strength, Hangboard, integrated strength, Strength Training
We’ve been training strength for a long time. For years, I struggled with just how to fit all the hangboard training, general strength training, and supporting exercises in a normal climber’s week. Many of us try to get by without the extra work, opting to just go climbing instead. A look at the big picture,…
Strength Session Design Part 2
Tags: Movement Preparation, Progress, Session Design, Strength Standards, Training, Weight Training
by Steve Bechtel I wrote my first article on strength session design a few years back, and I thought it might be useful to update that article with the changes we’ve made to our programs over the past few seasons. In general, climbers agree on the need for climbing – sport specific movement – to…
Pull-Up Progressions: The Rules
Tags: Progress, Pull-Ups, Strength Standards, Weight Training
by Steve Bechtel Sometimes, the simplest movements are the hardest to master. When we look at the value of particular resistance exercises, it’s hard to dispute that a very few movements can make or break a training plan. Working with just a squat, a deadlift, a push-up variant, and pull-ups, you can develop a life-long…
Introduction to System Board Training
Tags: Finger Strength, Rhythm, Specific Strength, System Training, Unilateral Training
By Steve Bechtel The System Board is simply a small climbing wall outfitted with regularly spaced matched pair of holds. Although anything from 2 pair to 10 pairs are common, most companies providing packages of these holds sell them in sets of 6-8. More critical than cool tiles, however, is to set them up with…
Hangboard Training for Finger Strength – A Primer
Tags: Finger Strength, Full Crimp, Half Crimp, Hangboard, Hangboard Ladders, Open Hand, Strength, Training
By Steve Bechtel The hangboard is perhaps the best tool for developing finger strength in climbers. Unfortunately, it is too often “over-sold” by manufacturers as a one-stop training device for all climbing movement. When your desire is stronger fingers, let that be your goal; don’t be fooled into trying to get a pump or do…
Hangboard Ladder Training 1
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, Hangboard Ladders, Max Hangs, Repeaters, Strength, Training
By Steve Bechtel Over the past few years, we’ve seen some incredible climbing gyms opening around the world. We’re talking multi-million-dollar indoor crags here, some so diverse and huge that you might never want to wander outside again. Strangely, though, the gyms aren’t cranking out superstars as fast as you’d think. I had a great…
Making Sense of Hangboard Programs
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, Hangboard Ladders, Max Hangs, Repeaters, Rock Prodigy, Strength, Training
by Steve Bechtel I’ve been asked to weigh in more than a few times on various discussions on which was the “best” method of hangboard training. Although this is much like deciding which is the best dumbbell workout, it got me thinking. To truly decide what the best hangboard program for you is, you’ve got…