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The Attachment to Desire

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By Chrissy Vadovszki In the game of rock climbing, it’s easy to have many desires. And as a dedicated climber myself, like most taking the time to read this, I desire to perform well and eventually send all my projects. I desire to stay healthy and avoid injury or setbacks. I desire to have amazing…

Foundations: An Emphasis on Intention and Practice

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By AJ Sobrilsky   Planning the work and working the plan by focusing on the 90% that’s important and not the 10% that’s interesting.    Both as a coach and medical professional who sees a lot of climbing athletes of various climbing, training, and experience levels I’m regularly asked, “Is it worth training or should…

Climbing is Suffering

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By Chrissy Vadovszki The First Noble Truth in Buddhism states that there is suffering. Life is impermanent and fragile. Nothing will last. We will lose it all. We care about and grasp onto much of what will ultimately change. In addition, life and climbing are full of injury, aging, sickness, losing loved ones and death….

Program Design Series: Introduction

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Train Like You (Should) Eat

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by Micah Elconin Long before my career coaching rock climbers, I worked as a private chef. My niche was healthy cooking and menu planning for those on restricted diets. I worked with all sorts of clients. From those battling cancer to the rich and famous, I developed and prepared menus that fit the specific wants,…

Injuries: Probably Not Your First Rodeo, Nor Your Last

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by AJ Sobrilsky As a climber, coach, and physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers and mountain athletes I half heartedly joke that there are 3 guarantees in life: death, taxes, and injuries. I’ve yet to meet any athlete, new or seasoned in the sport, that hasn’t endured some level of physical complaint or…

Tactical Periodization

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by Steve Bechtel The first time I worked out, I was amazed at how hard repeating a specific move over and over again could feel. I had been in PE class and had played around with other kids my whole life, but when I joined the football team in fifth grade was the first time…

MOVE: Push-up Zip-up Drill

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Fundamentals of Endurance

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by Steve Bechtel I couldn’t even close my hands. I clawed at the huge holds, hoping the skin on my palms would tear a bit and give me a few seconds of purchase before I flew off into the sky below. My hips were slack. My footwork sloppy. Once again I flailed at the moves…

Fundamental Skills: Precision, Execution, and Balance

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by Andrew Caraballo, PCC, NSCA-CPT   These days, a simple Google search will bring up every climbing skill drill imaginable, but there lacks a framework for progressing those skills over time. In this article, we’ll discuss three major overarching climbing skills that will build on each other. These are balance, precision, and execution. Some famous…

Third Gear: The Aerobic Energy System

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by Steve Bechtel   A few years back, I was asked during an interview how important running is to climbing performance. Somewhat reactively, I said, “Running is as important for climbing as climbing is for running.” Over the years, I’ve received more than a fair number of messages and emails about this statement. Although there…

Second Gear: The Anaerobic Lactic Energy System

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by Steve Bechtel   Feel the burn. If you’ve ever worked to a pump that made you feel nauseous, sprinted so hard you had to lie down, or could taste the acid on your breath in a session, you know what maxing out the anaerobic lactic system feels like. In hard climbing, this is the…

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