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Execution Volume 3: The Path to Being The Best Climber You Can Be
Tags: climbing training, execution, Goal Setting, Jacob Carr, Planning, Scheduling, Strength
by Jacob Carr Action. This Is The Way. Now that you have a framework on how to attack a project-level route and a way to practice execution in the gym you can now put them into practice and allow yourself to perform on the rock. You can act on what you want. You…
Watch: Redpoint Tactics #1 – Have a Plan
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 1 of…
Watch: Program Design
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
Many climbers and coaches think about designing a training cycle for themselves or an athlete and the first thing that comes to mind is the exercises they will program. This is intuitive and it makes sense why you would think to start there, but is completely backwards. In this video Steve lays out the four…
BLOG: Why Are We Training?
Tags: Injury Prevention, Planning, Steve Bechtel, Steve's Blog
By Steve Bechtel If you drill down with anyone in the gym, the goal of their training session might very well be “to get tired and sore.” Their objective, of course, is greater sport performance or a change in the way their body looks and functions. But in training for a sport, and using…
Watch: In-Season Fitness
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
We can train to improve or train to hold our ground. This is an important distinction, and one worth keeping in mind when you are training. Most of us think only in terms of trying to get better – to push more weight, to hold smaller crimps, etc. Most of us think in terms of…
Fundamentals Of Drill Sessions
Tags: Alex Bridgewater, Performance, Planning, Visualization
By Alex Bridgewater I work with an athlete that has had some recurring issues with his fingers. He is a strong boulderer and despite his efforts to keep his fingers up to snuff, he often would develop some sort of joint inflammation that would set him back. For a while we would drop back on…
Hard To Kill
Tags: climbing training, execution, Strength, Ty Vineyard
by Ty Vineyard Your fitness may be the difference between failure and success, or even life and death. Many do not think about this, even athletes who consistently train. SOF Operators, mountain guides, firefighters, and many other professionals highlight the importance of being “hard to kill.” Consistently operating in high consequence environments demands an approach…
Execution Vol 2: Developing Responsibility for Yourself
Tags: climbing training, execution, Goal Setting, Jacob Carr, Planning, Scheduling, Strength
by Jacob Carr The next step in execution will refer to your tactics around redpoint climbing. How do you spend your time at the crag? You can handle an undirected crag day by learning how to take responsibility for yourself and what you accomplish on a given climbing day. This means, deciding what your intentions…
BLOG: Pacing
Tags: pacing, speed training, Steve Bechtel, Steve's Blog, tempo
By Steve Bechtel Last month, I had the pleasure of going to a big bouldering competition with no agenda except to watch my daughter climb, and then stay around for the open finals. It was a great event, and instead of focusing on the whole of the competition in the finals (who was topping,…
Watch: Fundamentalist Programming
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
In the last decade or so the climbing world has become absolutely saturated with information on training practices. It is super confusing to figure out how to train effectively and how to balance this with your climbing. Everyone wants to know what is the “best” way to train, and our answer has always been the…
Watch: Introduction to Drill Work
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Replica, Simulation, Tactics
Skill development is fundamental to progression in climbing. Too often, we focus on building stamina, physical strength, or power, when just learning to move better is the simple-and long lasting-solution. In this video, Climb Strong Coach Alex Bridgewater outlines methods for successful drill sessions. This is a very useful framework for coaches designing programs and…
Execution Vol 1: Better People Make Better Climbers
Tags: climbing training, execution, Goal Setting, Jacob Carr, Planning, Scheduling, Strength
by Jacob Carr I get the hunch that most climbers, if they were asked, would rather not train for climbing. Ever. If they could, they would be the best version of themselves on the rock by just climbing, no hangboarding-only redpointing flawlessly. If you’ve read anything by Steve Bechtel you’ve probably heard him say, “If…