Climbing Magazine | Training – TALES OF POWER by Steve Bechtel

The real secret to effective power training

You can train long or you can train hard, but not both – which is probably why so many of us train power so wrongly. (By “power,” we mean the product of strength and speed, i.e., the explosive force recruited any time you use momentum, or “go for it.”) Properly training power allows you to get stronger – to muckle through otherwise impossible cruxes. Thus, step one with power training is to realize you’re training, not just exercising. i.e., if you’re still firing out a steep wall on small holds three hours into a session, the problem’s nowhere near your maximum ability and you’re not really training power.

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