So I was wondering how most people are approaching sustaining extensive endurance through out a long periodized program specifically if you are following a typical block model, (endurance>strength>power>power endurance). What has proven a good method for keeping endurance at a decent level when it gets to performance time?
Ex: Once a week after power climbing, Setting aside a day once a week to work on it, etc…
Holding on to endurance can be really difficult. We look at our athletes’ endurance in two ways:
1. single-effort endurance – the ability to complete a long, sustained pitch, or the ability to recover on routes
2. work capacity or stamina – the ability to have multiple good efforts throughout a session or climbing day/days
One primary thing to look for is sustaining the same general number of training/exercising hours throughout your cycle. It’s easy to pull back on volume when you start working more intense systems like strength and power. When we move to these cycles, we try to reserve one day per week for volume climbing, which can be combined with hiking/resistance training/whatever to get your requisite hours in.
If you are still short on hours, consider splitting a strength session across two days and increasing the volume of each half slightly. Non-specific modes such as rowing, stairmaster, treadwall, etc. are all good ways of keeping your work capacity up.
For single-pitch endurance, consider adding some duration-specific work to the end of a strength or bouldering session. You won’t need too much, maybe 2-3 sets of a 5-8 minute sustained effort, either on a bouldering traverse / circuit or on routes.