Posts
In-Depth: Is It Mobility or Flexibility That is Limiting You?
Tags: Flexibility, in-depth video, Mobility
Before you start an intensive stretching program, it might be good to know whether it is flexibility that’s really limiting you…
Effective Warm-Ups
Tags: activation, crag warm-up, Movement, preparation, Warm-Ups
Training is the thing that makes you stronger. Warming up right is the thing that makes training work. For most of us, warming up has an intuitive “feel” to it – we start easy, and after a few minutes of gentle activity we feel ready to go. Younger athletes do, and need, less warming up….
In-Depth: The Heavy Finger Roll
Tags: Grip Strength, grip training, heavy finger rolls, Specific Strength
The king of the grip exercises, the heavy finger roll is best used as a tool for creating hypertrophy. We recommend doing several sets in the 8-10 rep range.
In-Depth: Pull-Up Regressions
Tags: in-depth video, Pull-Ups
Instead of unloading the pull-up we like to regress the movement at bodyweight. This tends to get the athlete to full pull-ups faster than assisted variations. The regressions are: 3-second hang, at top, reverse grip 1/4 chin from top 1/2 chin from top 3/4 chin from top full chin from top pull-up from top pull-up
Training Beta Podcast 090 | How to Train for Multiple Sports with Charlie Manganiello
Tags: Charlie Manganiello, multisport, Running, skiing, Training Beta Podcast, training for climbing
I wanted to talk to Charlie so he could explain to you all what he described in his lecture at the ClimbStrong Training Seminar about how you can train for multiple sports throughout the year. Here’s what we talked about: How he improved his performance as a skier, climber, and runner The yearly schedule he…
Advances in Core Training
Tags: abs, Core Strength, Specific Strength
This is not the first article on “core” training I have written, but I felt the need to expand on the previous ones and to highlight what we are doing in our current programs. In general, the way we look at training the midsection has not changed, but over the past couple of years we’ve…
Variations on Integrated Strength
Tags: Circuits, Finger Strength, Hangboard, integrated strength, Strength Training
We’ve been training strength for a long time. For years, I struggled with just how to fit all the hangboard training, general strength training, and supporting exercises in a normal climber’s week. Many of us try to get by without the extra work, opting to just go climbing instead. A look at the big picture,…
Training Power in the Weight Room
Tags: Power, Power Training, Strength, Weight Training
“Power,” said Hassan Saab, “If you’re talking about it, you ain’t got it.” In hard climbing, power is everything. When we reach our limits, whether they be 5.11 or 5.15, we start having to use speed and momentum to get between the holds. Most climbers recognize this and train for it specifically – buy using…
Power Company Podcast Episode 40: BONUS: Logical Progression Pt. 2 with Steve Bechtel
Tags: kris hampton, logical progression, nonlinear periodization, power company climbing, Steve Bechtel
This follow-up episode to the Logical Progression conversation features Q+A on the Logical Progression book with the Power Company listeners. This is where your detailed questions on the program will be answered. Enjoy.
Power Company Podcast Episode 39: Logical Progression Pt. 1 with Steve Bechtel
Tags: kris hampton, logical progression, nonlinear periodization, podcast, power company climbing, Steve Bechtel
In this conversation, Kris Hampton and I went in-depth on the Logical Progression program and my book. Honorary Cohost Steve Bechtel has a new book out. Logical Progression: Using Non Linear Periodization for Year Round Climbing Performance. If you write your own training plans, and still have a hard time sticking to your plan, this…
Power Company Podcast Episode 14: Being a Multisport Athlete with Charlie Manganiello
Tags: Charlie Manganiello, kris hampton, multisport, podcast, power company climbing, Strength
Charlie sat down with Kris Hampton for an enlightening conversation on the challenges of trying to do many sports and do them well. In this episode I sit down with strength coach, climber, and multisport athlete Charlie Manganiello, from ClimbStrong, to find out how we can all perform in multiple sports. Charlie takes a common sense,…
In Depth: The Turkish Get-Up
Tags: Charlie Manganiello, get-up, in-depth video, Steve Bechtel
In Depth: The Get-Up from Steve Bechtel on Vimeo. The get-up is a complex total body movement. Beginning prone on the floor, press a kettlebell to a locked arm position vertically. With the sam-side leg bent 90 degrees at the knee and the foot planted on the floor, place the other arm at 45 degrees…