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Ben Hanna - Butora - Wastelands Area - Rifle Mountain Park - For Sander

Pre-Climb Rituals

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By Steve Bechtel I like to go to competitions. I like them for many different reasons, but mostly it is to watch people as they prepare to compete. See, the vast majority of pre-event activity is nothing like the way we prepare for training. At bouldering competitions, we see all kinds of craziness, and pre-climb…

Kevin Wallingford Demonstrating Deadlift B&W

Direction

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By Steve Bechtel Once the fever to train sets in, awareness of one’s body becomes paramount. Buying into the excitement and perhaps difficulty of this or that training fad, an athlete can actually change direction and drift further from his goal by training harder. Unfortunately, in the world of difficult climbing, simply working hard does…

Hands in Chalk b&w, Photo by Mei Ratz

The 1-6-3 Rule

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By Steve Bechtel Training can be fun. It can also be a huge effort. Usually, it’s somewhere in between. One big mistake first-time trainees make is thinking that it’s going to be fun the whole time. Think about it…remember how exciting the first day of school was? That first kiss? The day you bought a…

Max Sport Climbing, Looking for Next Move

How Hard Do You Try?

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By Steve Bechtel Why is it that some people just keep getting better while the rest of us are stuck? Further, why can I follow the same program as another climber and watch him rack up the grades while I still fail at the same level year after year? As hard as it is to…

Change

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by Steve Bechtel This site is filled with our best training ideas and advice. There are dozens of books on systems for improving your climbing. You could watch quality training videos online for a whole day and get ten lifetimes worth of good advice. So why do so few climbers reach their goals each year?…

ESTIM Equipment

E-Stim Might Make You Weaker

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By Steve Bechtel I am as excited about the next big thing in training as the next guy. When Electronic Muscle Stimulation (E-Stim) came on the scene, I could almost feel my forearms getting stronger just thinking about it. It was a great idea for climbers; a way to train the forearm muscles when you…

Steve Bechtel Airdyne b&w, photo by Mei Ratz

Three Mistakes You Might Be Making in the Gym

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By Steve Bechtel Training is all about progress. Unless you just love to train (I’d rather watch Deadwood), you’d better be seeing some results for the hours you spend flogging yourself. What we see in most climbers, though, is really just slight decreases in fitness throughout the year, and then an occasional return to a…

Progress

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By Steve Bechtel It happens every year at a hundred different climbing areas. There is a glimmer of talent, a hint of drive, and a motivated climber is born. He cruises up through the grades, doing several 5.10 and 5.11 routes with his friends, he makes progress, and then he starts to pull ahead. Finally,…

Extensive Endurance On Home Wall?

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Currently the only means of plastic tugging I have is my 6 foot wide 45 degree home wall. I’m curious as to how you’d recommend approaching training extensive endurance with only a steep woody and some hanging implements. I’ve got jugs to rup my greasy fingers on but at the angle I’m working with its…

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V-Sum Question – Problem Completion

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Are failed sends counted? Today I did my warm up and then: v4, v4, v5, v5,v4, 3 attempts at 2 different V5, V4, 2 attempts at a v5, 2xV4. The attempts get me to or just past the crux and are only 1 or 2 moves short of completion. I am targeting overall intensity for…

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I am a boulderer. How do I apply Logical Progression to my training?

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The Logical Progression program was written with route climbers in mind, but it can be applied to any sport. For bouldering, I’d suggest backing off a bit on the energy system work, and increase the strength and power facets of the training. Instead of training like this: STRENGTH > POWER > STRENGTH ENDURANCE You might…

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I don’t understand the 3-6-9 Hangboard Ladders. How much load? How much should I rest?

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I don’t describe a loading progression in the hangboard ladders because I think it should happen somewhat organically. I have found that time after time climber want to progress the loads on the board much more quickly than they should, and it is almost guaranteed that a finger injury occurs in the last week of…

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