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Optimal Climbing Weight

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Q: Specifically I would like to know more about effective ways to reduce unnecessary muscle mass from the legs. I come from a road bike racing background and so I have more muscle on my thighs and butt than necessary for climbing (or mostly anything besides racing a bicycle) and I would like to slim…

Session Ordering With Multiple Hangboard

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Q: My impression from the book is that a suggested ordering of session types is strength-power-endurance, and these are rotated through during the training cycle. I.e. if you do a strength session, your next training session is power. I also recall Steve saying in a podcast that he suggests doing more strength work during the offseason,…

More Block Periodization Explanation

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There was a thread comparing different periodization strategies over at Mountain Project (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization–non-linear-periodization/108438729 ). I wrote this explanation to contrast this model with the classical model. Not sure if it’s necessary here or not…   I remember when I first read about periodization. It was revelatory in an almost religious sense. Finally there was a clear…

ARC Training and High-Low

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Q: I have been doing a kind of high low thing recently and was wondering how you have been doing your ARC training? I have mainly been traversing because when I do ups and downs it is hard to keep it chilled enough. How do you do it? Cheers Cliff Hi Cliff, The hardest part…

Work Capacity – Climbing Hard All Day Long (part 2)

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By Steve Bechtel “Work is never fun, especially when you’re measuring it in watts per hour.” – The Man In part two of this article, we’ll talk about contrasting work capacity (WC) with your normal strength training (ST), and why you really can’t maximally train both. In WC training, it’s all about tolerating a high,…

Limit Bouldering Definition

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I’m trying to make sense of what, exactly, “limit bouldering” actually is. According to your plans, limit problems should require a handful of tries to complete, but according to the Anderson brothers, limit boulders should actually take a handful of months (if not longer). Obviously that means you could go several/many training blocks without actually…

Keeping a Good Base of Endurance

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So I was wondering how most people are approaching sustaining extensive endurance through out a long periodized program specifically if you are following a typical block model, (endurance>strength>power>power endurance). What has proven a good method for keeping endurance at a decent level when it gets to performance time? Ex: Once a week after power climbing,…

Alex Bridgewater Toes to Bars, Photo by Mei Ratz

Improve Your Hip Mobility And Core Strength For Better Climbing

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by Charlie Manganiello SFG II Does your butt sag and feet pop off on cave problems? Ever try a dyno or thrutch for some reachy move and struggle because you can’t get your foot high enough on the hold you need? How about those times you go to make the big move and you end…

Charlie Manganiello spots a child as she climbs in the climbing gym

Revisiting Bouldering Training for Novices

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by Steve Bechtel One of the most powerful tools we can acquire for getting better is to figure out how much getting better there is to be done. I first wrote the Novice Bouldering Program in 2010, re-released it a couple of years back, and am revisiting it again now. Why? Because it is one…

Notebook with pages of Climbing Notes

Quantifying Bouldering Sessions

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by Steve Bechtel One of the greatest things about climbing, and I think one of the things that attracts many of us to the sport, is that no two moves are ever the same. Even the very same climbs can be executed differently each time you do them. This is endlessly entertaining for the mind,…

Cedric Bouldering

Volume-Driven Bouldering Plan

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By Steve Bechtel Here is what a bouldering session looks like for probably 90% of all climbers everywhere. Show up when friends suggest showing up. Warm-Up by doing some “easy” problems. Start working some “hard” problems, rest as needed. Finish up with some more “easy” problems. As silly as this looks when you see it…

A Child Climbs in a Bouldering Gym B&W

Sessions For Any Climbing Gym

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By Steve Bechtel One of the biggest barriers to effective progress as a rock climber, ironically, can be training sessions in a commercial climbing gym. Oh, sure, there are good gyms around, but they’re rare and many lack certain very useful things. These things can range from lacking a good hangboard, to limited hours, to…

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