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Q+A: Longer Duration Intervals As A Sustainable Part of Base Training?

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Q: Anaerobic Capacity. Do you think longer duration anaerobic intervals at a 1:4 work/ rest ratio can be a sustainable part of a ‘base phase’? Alex Barrows suggests 45 seconds work interval with a 1:4 work rest. In the PCC we used 10 seconds work interval with a 1:5 work to rest. Is the 45…

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In-Depth: 13 x 4-Week Cycles

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In-Depth: To Train or Not To Train?

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Fundamentals of Program Design

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It has never been a better time to be a performance-oriented rock climber. In the past few years there has been an explosion of good information on training, and a huge number of great tools to help you train. From better handhold designs, to improved hangboards, to ingenious tools such as the Tension Block, we…

In-Depth: Non-Specific Alactic Interval Combos

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In-Depth: Building Base vs. Peaking Cycles

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In-Depth: When to Switch Up Your Training

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Q+A: Good at Being Pumped or Good at Avoiding It?

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Q+A: What is the Easiest and Fastest Way to Get Strong?

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In-Depth: Why Negative-Recovery Intervals Are of Dubious Value

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In-Depth: Vagy Warm-Up

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Foundational Bouldering (or Why Being a Novice is a Good Thing)

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One of the great blunders of training is over-complication. It goes like this: You get interested in getting better so you go to the gym a bit and you get a little stronger and you get psyched and so you read about training and you get inspired to try some more stuff and you keep…

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