Posts

In-Depth: Simple Strength Cycling – Weekly Volume Variation

Tags: , ,

In-Depth: Simple Peak Force Testing with the Tindeq

Tags: ,

Weight Training: What it is and is not.

Tags: ,

As humans, we all tend to use categories and observations about groups of things to understand the world.Puppies are cute. Fruits are sweet. Scarpa shoes are awesome. Categories. It gets dangerous. Women are crazy. People with dark skin are dangerous. Liberals are weak. We learn through our culture, our parents, our schools that individual observation…

In-Depth: Horizontal Press Progressions & Regressions

Tags: , ,

High / Low Training… What To Do and When.

Tags: , , ,

“In endurance, not only does the magnitude of fatigue matter, but also its nature.” – V. Zatsiorsky, 1966   Endurance – simply the ability to keep doing a task over and over – is something we all feel we need more of from time to time. The problem with gaining endurance is that there are…

In-Depth: Choosing Foods Based on Nutrient Density

Tags: , ,

Q+A: Finger Strength for Older Climbers?

Tags: , ,

Q: Hi Steve, I’ve got a question about building finger strength in life’s latter half–as in, after the age of 50. I took many years off climbing, came about five years ago, and I’ve had a hard time rebuilding finger strength. I work out mostly at an indoor bouldering gym and I’ve found that I…

...

In-Depth: Overview of Climbing Day Warm-Ups

Tags: , , ,

Advancing Training Load

Tags: , ,

If you haven’t heard by now, the way you get better at doing harder things is to do harder things. If you are constantly playing it safe, building volume, and avoiding discomfort, well guess what – you’d better get used to doing the same routes over and over again. For those who want to advance,…

In-Depth: Turkish Get-Up With Presses

Tags: , ,

In-Depth: Everything is Too Much

Tags: , , , ,

Q+A: Longer Duration Intervals As A Sustainable Part of Base Training?

Tags: , , ,

Q: Anaerobic Capacity. Do you think longer duration anaerobic intervals at a 1:4 work/ rest ratio can be a sustainable part of a ‘base phase’? Alex Barrows suggests 45 seconds work interval with a 1:4 work rest. In the PCC we used 10 seconds work interval with a 1:5 work to rest. Is the 45…

...

Site Search

Categories