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Hard To Kill

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by Ty Vineyard Your fitness may be the difference between failure and success, or even life and death. Many do not think about this, even athletes who consistently train. SOF Operators, mountain guides, firefighters, and many other professionals highlight the importance of being “hard to kill.” Consistently operating in high consequence environments demands an approach…

Execution Vol 2: Developing Responsibility for Yourself

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by Jacob Carr The next step in execution will refer to your tactics around redpoint climbing. How do you spend your time at the crag? You can handle an undirected crag day by learning how to take responsibility for yourself and what you accomplish on a given climbing day. This means, deciding what your intentions…

BLOG: Pacing

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  By Steve Bechtel Last month, I had the pleasure of going to a big bouldering competition with no agenda except to watch my daughter climb, and then stay around for the open finals. It was a great event, and instead of focusing on the whole of the competition in the finals (who was topping,…

Watch: Fundamentalist Programming

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In the last decade or so the climbing world has become absolutely saturated with information on training practices. It is super confusing to figure out how to train effectively and how to balance this with your climbing. Everyone wants to know what is the “best” way to train, and our answer has always been the…

Watch: Introduction to Drill Work

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Skill development is fundamental to progression in climbing. Too often, we focus on building stamina, physical strength, or power, when just learning to move better is the simple-and long lasting-solution. In this video, Climb Strong Coach Alex Bridgewater outlines methods for successful drill sessions. This is a very useful framework for coaches designing programs and…

Execution Vol 1: Better People Make Better Climbers

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by Jacob Carr I get the hunch that most climbers, if they were asked, would rather not train for climbing. Ever. If they could, they would be the best version of themselves on the rock by just climbing, no hangboarding-only redpointing flawlessly. If you’ve read anything by Steve Bechtel you’ve probably heard him say, “If…

Watch: Specificity or Simulation?

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Climbing is a remarkably diverse sport. The demands of a three move boulder problem are much different than those of a 20-hour alpine ridge traverse. As such, specificity should be a pillar of our training for rock climbing. At its most basic, specificity means training that simulates the sport. But it can be broken down…

Pick Your Poison: Cold or Heat Therapy for Recovery

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By Taylor Carr, MS, ISSN-SNS, PN1   “The Iceman” Wim Hof, a Dutchman famed for swimming in icy waters, is said to be the father of ice bath recovery. The U.S. Special Operations Forces also use cold therapy as a form of “high-stress training.” This training, however, involves wildly cold water that trained individuals can…

BLOG: Ask More Questions

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  By Steve Bechtel One of the hallmarks of a developing sport like rock climbing is the quest to optimize training for the sport. We look at how we fail to execute the tasks of the sport and then try to reduce the occurrence of those failures. We start with the simplest level of thinking…

Watch: Session Variability

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If you’re stuck, it’s probably not detailing out a more complex workout that is going to get you unstuck. It’s going to be doing simple things better. Most of us like the idea that each session we do is a developmental session. We seek out physical markers of having worked hard, such as sweat, weak…

Rachel’s Momentum Drills

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By Rachel Speer I’ll be the very first one to admit it: I hate dynos. I would much prefer to figure out a way to do a move statically, even if it takes ten times the energy and strength than it would to just… for lack of a better word… yeet myself up the wall….

Watch: Energy Systems

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In this video CS coach Joel Unema breaks down the three energy systems and how to approach training them. Movement is the basis of climbing up rocks, and in order to move, we need to supply our body with energy. Since any and all movement can occur at multiple speeds, in different directions, and over…

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