Posts
Weight Training: What it is and is not.
Tags: Strength Training, Weight Training
As humans, we all tend to use categories and observations about groups of things to understand the world.Puppies are cute. Fruits are sweet. Scarpa shoes are awesome. Categories. It gets dangerous. Women are crazy. People with dark skin are dangerous. Liberals are weak. We learn through our culture, our parents, our schools that individual observation…
High / Low Training… What To Do and When.
Tags: aerobic endurance, Anaerobic Endurance, Endurance, High Low
“In endurance, not only does the magnitude of fatigue matter, but also its nature.” – V. Zatsiorsky, 1966 Endurance – simply the ability to keep doing a task over and over – is something we all feel we need more of from time to time. The problem with gaining endurance is that there are…
Q+A: Finger Strength for Older Climbers?
Tags: Finger Strength, Over 50, Q+A
Q: Hi Steve, I’ve got a question about building finger strength in life’s latter half–as in, after the age of 50. I took many years off climbing, came about five years ago, and I’ve had a hard time rebuilding finger strength. I work out mostly at an indoor bouldering gym and I’ve found that I…
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Advancing Training Load
Tags: Hangboard, Planning, Resistance Training
If you haven’t heard by now, the way you get better at doing harder things is to do harder things. If you are constantly playing it safe, building volume, and avoiding discomfort, well guess what – you’d better get used to doing the same routes over and over again. For those who want to advance,…
Q+A: Longer Duration Intervals As A Sustainable Part of Base Training?
Tags: George Foreman, Intervals, Power Endurance, Q+A
Q: Anaerobic Capacity. Do you think longer duration anaerobic intervals at a 1:4 work/ rest ratio can be a sustainable part of a ‘base phase’? Alex Barrows suggests 45 seconds work interval with a 1:4 work rest. In the PCC we used 10 seconds work interval with a 1:5 work to rest. Is the 45…
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