Q+A: Triphasic Training in Climbing?

Q: Do you think there is value to incorporating triphasic training principles in climbing? Forearm curls seem to be a place where they could be applied. If yes, when would you add it. I am on a non-linear program with s strength day, power day and power endurance day. I also have bar campus rings which seem like another potential application.


A: Triphasic Training is a system of strength and power development from mastermind Cal Dietz. Originally a collegiate development program, Dietz has adapted the program and the ideas to several sports. In general, he divides focus on the main parts of a movement – the eccentric phase, the isometric phase, and the concentric phase – which are usually trained concurrently, into discrete 2-week phases.

I think this type of programming could work well for a climber whose strength training has plateaued in the gym. I can’t really figure how it might work with actual practice of climbing, but in the weight room it might work really well. The program is elegant once you know it, but can be a tough one to learn. I really recommend buying Dietz’s book if you are going to experiment with it. If you do test it out, let me know how it works! – Steve