Q: My impression from the book is that a suggested ordering of session types is strength-power-endurance, and these are rotated through during the training cycle. I.e. if you do a strength session, your next training session is power.
I also recall Steve saying in a podcast that he suggests doing more strength work during the offseason, with two or maybe even three hangboard sessions per week.
If I were to rotate through the session types each week, but add one additional hangboard session per week, when would be the optimal point to insert this session?
For athletes using the Logical Progression plan: In the off season, I usually suggest switching out of the cycle for 8-10 weeks and focusing on strength. During this time, I’d go for 2-3 days per week on the hangboard. You can slowly reduce the number of these sessions as you add more climbing in, eventually dropping to a single session every 7-10 days in-season. When you are doing a full LP cycle, it’s hard to see progress on the hangboard, but that is not the intent of the plan. All you need to do is stay strong enough to send routes!
If you maintained the cycle as you suggest, you could spend 8 weeks on a simple STR/POWER/END cycle, then switch to a STR/POWER/STR/END cycle for 4-6 weeks.