Bouldering Training

Foundational Bouldering (or Why Being a Novice is a Good Thing)

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One of the great blunders of training is over-complication. It goes like this: You get interested in getting better so you go to the gym a bit and you get a little stronger and you get psyched and so you read about training and you get inspired to try some more stuff and you keep…

Total Body Power – 6 Weeks – Cycled Volume

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Power training is a harsh mistress, and can destroy you as easily as it can build you up. High loads and high speed make for ample opportunities to make mistakes, and we tend to overdo it in these workouts…especially when we’re jumping from hold to hold. This training plan is built with two firm goals…

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The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan

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TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 6 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions   As if complicating things made them somehow more effective. If you have not been training at all, the most effective solution is to start easy. On the flip-side, if you are bogged down by timing and…

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In-Depth: Density Bouldering

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Alex Bridgewater Demonstrates a 1Arm Hang Lock Off

Logical Progression for Bouldering

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The Logical Progression book details a surprisingly effective program of nonlinear training for rock climbers. The program is simple, flexible, and enjoyable…and follows a simple series of workouts. In general, athletes are asked to do an Integrated Strength workout, followed by a hard bouldering session, followed by a session designed to increase their endurance. Although…

Limit Bouldering Definition

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I’m trying to make sense of what, exactly, “limit bouldering” actually is. According to your plans, limit problems should require a handful of tries to complete, but according to the Anderson brothers, limit boulders should actually take a handful of months (if not longer). Obviously that means you could go several/many training blocks without actually…

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Ouray Ice Climbing Location Unknown

Advanced Strategies for Progress: Volume Variability

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by Steve Bechtel All you have to do is read the title to know that this isn’t one of those lovely “simplify it” articles. It’s no secret that I’m a fan of simple plans – yet sometimes, at the very tippy top of your ability, things need to get complicated when you try to move…

Alex Bridgewater, Steve Bechtel, Charlie Manganiello Discuss B&W, Photo by Mei Ratz

Breaking Free of the 7-Day Week

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By Steve Bechtel The structure of time, of the calendar, and of months is incredibly useful in society, but is often more a problem than a solution for athletes. Even though we live on a 24-hour schedule, and most of us work or go to school for five days followed by two days off, our…

Charlie Manganiello Kettlebell Rack Hold b&w, photo by Mei Ratz

Concentrated Loading

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by Steve Bechtel It doesn’t really matter what I write. It seems that within two hours of putting an article up, I get a “yeah, but…” email explaining how whatever I wrote just won’t work in x program and could I please explain how one might do y… Clearly, most of us have all the…

V-Sum Question – Problem Completion

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Are failed sends counted? Today I did my warm up and then: v4, v4, v5, v5,v4, 3 attempts at 2 different V5, V4, 2 attempts at a v5, 2xV4. The attempts get me to or just past the crux and are only 1 or 2 moves short of completion. I am targeting overall intensity for…

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I am a boulderer. How do I apply Logical Progression to my training?

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The Logical Progression program was written with route climbers in mind, but it can be applied to any sport. For bouldering, I’d suggest backing off a bit on the energy system work, and increase the strength and power facets of the training. Instead of training like this: STRENGTH > POWER > STRENGTH ENDURANCE You might…

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6|16 Finger Strength Plan

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The Plan I wrote this program for my athletes that couldn’t handle a lack of specifics when it comes to strength training. I am still a big fan of staying “organic” in your work and rest and in loading, but here is a plan that give you some exact details on how to build sessions.…

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