Bouldering Training

V-Sum Question – Problem Completion

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Are failed sends counted? Today I did my warm up and then: v4, v4, v5, v5,v4, 3 attempts at 2 different V5, V4, 2 attempts at a v5, 2xV4. The attempts get me to or just past the crux and are only 1 or 2 moves short of completion. I am targeting overall intensity for…

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6|16 Finger Strength Plan

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The Plan I wrote this program for my athletes that couldn’t handle a lack of specifics when it comes to strength training. I am still a big fan of staying “organic” in your work and rest and in loading, but here is a plan that give you some exact details on how to build sessions….

Contrast Load Hangboard Training

Contrast Load Hangboard Training

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The Plan The debate rages whether to load your hangboard training with added weight or to go to smaller holds. Whether to hang one arm or two. Whether to train multiple grips or just one. The answer, and you won’t like it, is all of these are right, at a certain time. The only error…

Power Bouldering Training Plan 2

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This training plan has been our most-downloaded plan for over five years. It’s pretty basic, but it delivers results. The version here is updated from the original 2007 program to reflect changes in our programming. This training cycle is set up to allow a little more leeway in an athlete’s training. It is a repeating…

Hangboard mono hangs

Level 1 Hangboard Progression

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The Plan We do a lot of hangboard training with our athletes. It is a tool we use primarily as a strength builder for the fingers and hand, but also as a way of preventing injury. Ironically, though, many climbers new to using the board get hurt when they first start using it. This is…

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