Bouldering Training
Concentrated Loading
Tags: Advanced Training, Bouldering Training, Concentrated Loading, General Training, Planning, Program Design, Tactics
by Steve Bechtel It doesn’t really matter what I write. It seems that within two hours of putting an article up, I get a “yeah, but…” email explaining how whatever I wrote just won’t work in x program and could I please explain how one might do y… Clearly, most of us have all the…
V-Sum Question – Problem Completion
Tags: Bouldering Training, quantifying bouldering, V-Sum
Are failed sends counted? Today I did my warm up and then: v4, v4, v5, v5,v4, 3 attempts at 2 different V5, V4, 2 attempts at a v5, 2xV4. The attempts get me to or just past the crux and are only 1 or 2 moves short of completion. I am targeting overall intensity for…
I am a boulderer. How do I apply Logical Progression to my training?
Tags: Bouldering Training, logical progression, nonlinear bouldering
The Logical Progression program was written with route climbers in mind, but it can be applied to any sport. For bouldering, I’d suggest backing off a bit on the energy system work, and increase the strength and power facets of the training. Instead of training like this: STRENGTH > POWER > STRENGTH ENDURANCE You might…
6|16 Finger Strength Plan
Tags: 16, 6, Bouldering Training, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Max Hangs, Training Plans
The Plan I wrote this program for my athletes that couldn’t handle a lack of specifics when it comes to strength training. I am still a big fan of staying “organic” in your work and rest and in loading, but here is a plan that give you some exact details on how to build sessions….
Contrast Load Hangboard Training
Tags: Bouldering Training, contrast loading, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Ladders
The Plan The debate rages whether to load your hangboard training with added weight or to go to smaller holds. Whether to hang one arm or two. Whether to train multiple grips or just one. The answer, and you won’t like it, is all of these are right, at a certain time. The only error…
Power Bouldering Training Plan 2
Tags: Bouldering Training, Campus, Limit Bouldering, Power, Strength, Training Plans
This training plan has been our most-downloaded plan for over five years. It’s pretty basic, but it delivers results. The version here is updated from the original 2007 program to reflect changes in our programming. This training cycle is set up to allow a little more leeway in an athlete’s training. It is a repeating…
Level 1 Hangboard Progression
Tags: Bouldering Training, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Training Plans
The Plan We do a lot of hangboard training with our athletes. It is a tool we use primarily as a strength builder for the fingers and hand, but also as a way of preventing injury. Ironically, though, many climbers new to using the board get hurt when they first start using it. This is…