capacity

General Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is the third General Endurance Plan in the CS series, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1 and 2… This plan is simply one that utilizes some different sessions than we saw in 1 and 2. I’ll remind you that GE2 was a no-climbing-available plan. This plan, although do-able in a gym, requires…

General Endurance Training Plan 2

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This is the second General Endurance Plan for the site, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1…This one is built with the idea that no actual climbing is available to you. I built this for an athlete that was stationed in Afghanistan and had access to nothing but a hangboard, weight room, and cardio…

General Endurance Training Plan 1

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Here’s what you don’t want to hear. You don’t want me to tell you that the root of your problem might be a fundamental lack of athleticism, that you might be lacking the basic building blocks of not just climbing fitness, but general fitness as well. There is a bit of a yin/yang relationship when…

In-Depth: Building Training Capacity

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In-Depth: Capacity Training on Routes

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In-Depth: Density Bouldering

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Aerobic Capacity 1B – 6 week

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“You talk a lot about how easy it is to ramp up your endurance,” he said. “For me it’s not that easy. It seems like it takes months to build a decent base and then all my power is gone. What am I doing wrong?” I had almost the exact same conversation twice in a…

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