capacity

Aerobic Capacity Program 8:3 (Level 2-3)

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by Steve Bechtel A better way to look at endurance in climbing is to understand that unless you’ve totally neglected it, you probably have some kind of general endurance for climbing. I’ll also preface this by saying that if you never try (nor plan to try) routes or long boulders, you might not really need…

Endurance Training Revisited, Again, Redux

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By Steve Bechtel Endurance is the ability to display power or strength over time. It can be of continuous, high intensity, or it can be intermittent in nature. There are many different ways that endurance shows up in our sport, and there are a few key lessons to take home before we start equating simply…

Fundamentals of Endurance

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by Steve Bechtel I couldn’t even close my hands. I clawed at the huge holds, hoping the skin on my palms would tear a bit and give me a few seconds of purchase before I flew off into the sky below. My hips were slack. My footwork sloppy. Once again I flailed at the moves…

In-Depth: Capacity Training on Routes

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In-Depth: Capacity Changes With the Seasons

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General Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is the third General Endurance Plan in the CS series, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1 and 2… This plan is simply one that utilizes some different sessions than we saw in 1 and 2. I’ll remind you that GE2 was a no-climbing-available plan. This plan, although do-able in a gym, requires…

General Endurance Training Plan 2

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This is the second General Endurance Plan for the site, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1…This one is built with the idea that no actual climbing is available to you. I built this for an athlete that was stationed in Afghanistan and had access to nothing but a hangboard, weight room, and cardio…

General Endurance Training Plan 1

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Here’s what you don’t want to hear. You don’t want me to tell you that the root of your problem might be a fundamental lack of athleticism, that you might be lacking the basic building blocks of not just climbing fitness, but general fitness as well. There is a bit of a yin/yang relationship when…

In-Depth: Building Training Capacity

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In-Depth: Density Bouldering

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Aerobic Capacity 1B – 6 week

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“You talk a lot about how easy it is to ramp up your endurance,” he said. “For me it’s not that easy. It seems like it takes months to build a decent base and then all my power is gone. What am I doing wrong?” I had almost the exact same conversation twice in a…

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