capacity
Detraining
Tags: capacity, climbing, Detraining, Power Endurance, Steve Bechtel, Strength
By Steve Bechtel The cool thing about studying one field for a long time is that you start to identify the core principles of how that field works. You start to understand that it shares principles with other fields. And you start to see that everyone who advances in the sport must follow those principles….
Just Do Work
Tags: capacity, climbing, Fitness, Micah Elconin, Tactics
By Micah Elconin There are few absolute truths in athletic training, but this might be one of them. General qualities should be developed before seeking to create specific adaptations. Build the engine before you start fiddling with components. One might also point out that racing with an inferior or neglected engine is not really a…
Aerobic Capacity Program 8:3 (Level 2-3)
Tags: aerobic endurance, capacity, Endurance, Steve Bechtel
by Steve Bechtel A better way to look at endurance in climbing is to understand that unless you’ve totally neglected it, you probably have some kind of general endurance for climbing. I’ll also preface this by saying that if you never try (nor plan to try) routes or long boulders, you might not really need…
Endurance Training Revisited, Again, Redux
Tags: capacity, climbing, Endurance, Power Endurance, Steve Bechtel
By Steve Bechtel Endurance is the ability to display power or strength over time. It can be of continuous, high intensity, or it can be intermittent in nature. There are many different ways that endurance shows up in our sport, and there are a few key lessons to take home before we start equating simply…
Fundamentals of Endurance
Tags: capacity, Circuits, Endurance, Power Endurance
by Steve Bechtel I couldn’t even close my hands. I clawed at the huge holds, hoping the skin on my palms would tear a bit and give me a few seconds of purchase before I flew off into the sky below. My hips were slack. My footwork sloppy. Once again I flailed at the moves…
General Endurance Training Plan 3
Tags: aerobic power, capacity, cardiac output, Endurance, energy systems, general endurance, High Low, Power Endurance
This is the third General Endurance Plan in the CS series, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1 and 2… This plan is simply one that utilizes some different sessions than we saw in 1 and 2. I’ll remind you that GE2 was a no-climbing-available plan. This plan, although do-able in a gym, requires…
General Endurance Training Plan 2
Tags: aerobic power, capacity, cardiac output, Endurance, energy systems, general endurance, High Low, no climbing gym, Power Endurance
This is the second General Endurance Plan for the site, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1…This one is built with the idea that no actual climbing is available to you. I built this for an athlete that was stationed in Afghanistan and had access to nothing but a hangboard, weight room, and cardio…
General Endurance Training Plan 1
Tags: aerobic power, capacity, cardiac output, Endurance, energy systems, general endurance, High Low, Power Endurance
Here’s what you don’t want to hear. You don’t want me to tell you that the root of your problem might be a fundamental lack of athleticism, that you might be lacking the basic building blocks of not just climbing fitness, but general fitness as well. There is a bit of a yin/yang relationship when…
