Endurance

Third Gear: The Aerobic Energy System

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by Steve Bechtel   A few years back, I was asked during an interview how important running is to climbing performance. Somewhat reactively, I said, “Running is as important for climbing as climbing is for running.” Over the years, I’ve received more than a fair number of messages and emails about this statement. Although there…

In-Depth: The New Conditioning Template

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General Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is the third General Endurance Plan in the CS series, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1 and 2… This plan is simply one that utilizes some different sessions than we saw in 1 and 2. I’ll remind you that GE2 was a no-climbing-available plan. This plan, although do-able in a gym, requires…

General Endurance Training Plan 2

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This is the second General Endurance Plan for the site, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1…This one is built with the idea that no actual climbing is available to you. I built this for an athlete that was stationed in Afghanistan and had access to nothing but a hangboard, weight room, and cardio…

First Gear: The Anaerobic Alactic Energy System

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by Steve Bechtel Movement is the basis of climbing up rocks, and in order to move, we need to supply our body with energy. Since any and all movement can occur at multiple speeds, in different directions, and over different durations, our bodies have evolved to handle supplying the energy for moving in several ways….

General Endurance Training Plan 1

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Here’s what you don’t want to hear. You don’t want me to tell you that the root of your problem might be a fundamental lack of athleticism, that you might be lacking the basic building blocks of not just climbing fitness, but general fitness as well. There is a bit of a yin/yang relationship when…

Specific Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is a third option in our specific endurance plans, after, Specific Endurance 1 and 2. This is the highest-volume plan and is somewhat of a progression over 1 and 2. To review from SE1: The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it relies on energy stored locally…

Specific Endurance Training Plan 2

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  This is a second option in our specific endurance plans, after, Specific Endurance 1, of course. This is not necessarily a progression from that plan, but is a slightly more intensive series of workouts.    To review from SE1: The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it…

High Load and Low Load Density Training

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by Steve Bechtel In the old days, we trained “endurance” by climbing easy moves until we got pumped and fell off. For me, this usually involved doing routes on toprope at Fremont Canyon, or traversing a long flagstone wall near the interstate in my hometown of Casper, Wyoming. The problem was this: Eventually, you got…

Specific Endurance Training Plan 1

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The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it relies on energy stored locally in the muscle, supplies dwindle immediately, and then are replenished via the aerobic system. This system is the one you use to do most strength and power training, and it is the one that kicks…

TS Strawberry Roan

Q+A: I’m Strong, But Have No Endurance

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Q: Hello Steve, I bought your newest book – Unstoppable Force -, because, well I want to get stronger ^^. I loved the book, most of the the knowledge and base principles that you share aren’t new for me, and that made me happy. My previous coach (not a climber) trained me with the same…

High / Low Training… What To Do and When.

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“In endurance, not only does the magnitude of fatigue matter, but also its nature.” – V. Zatsiorsky, 1966   Endurance – simply the ability to keep doing a task over and over – is something we all feel we need more of from time to time. The problem with gaining endurance is that there are…

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