Endurance

Resting on Routes

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By Chrissy Vadovszki As a climber transitions into more challenging sport or trad climbs, the need for better habits and tactics around optimal resting on routes arises. These thoughts and ideas can be applied to longer boulders (not to exclude the pebble wrestlers among us), as well as onsighting or flashing climbs. However, we will…

Aerobic Capacity Program 8:3 (Level 2-3)

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by Steve Bechtel A better way to look at endurance in climbing is to understand that unless you’ve totally neglected it, you probably have some kind of general endurance for climbing. I’ll also preface this by saying that if you never try (nor plan to try) routes or long boulders, you might not really need…

Endurance Training Revisited, Again, Redux

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By Steve Bechtel Endurance is the ability to display power or strength over time. It can be of continuous, high intensity, or it can be intermittent in nature. There are many different ways that endurance shows up in our sport, and there are a few key lessons to take home before we start equating simply…

TRAIN: Static Dynamics

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Fundamentals of Endurance

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by Steve Bechtel I couldn’t even close my hands. I clawed at the huge holds, hoping the skin on my palms would tear a bit and give me a few seconds of purchase before I flew off into the sky below. My hips were slack. My footwork sloppy. Once again I flailed at the moves…

TRAIN: Intensive vs Extensive Endurance

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In-Depth: Capacity Training on Routes

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8-8-8 Endurance (12 Weeks)

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by Steve Bechtel The 8-8-8 Plan is a 12 week program aimed at making a long-term improvement in endurance capability. So often people go looking for a plan that will get them “in shape” for endurance, but only ever realize an endurance peak that takes them back to the same level that they previously attained….

The Nugget Climbing Podcast: Episode 35

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This was one of the favorite podcasts I’ve (Steve) ever done. Steven is a top-notch interviewer and is leading mind in climbing training, which made it easy to talk for a long time. Luckily, Steven is also a good editor!

Third Gear: The Aerobic Energy System

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by Steve Bechtel   A few years back, I was asked during an interview how important running is to climbing performance. Somewhat reactively, I said, “Running is as important for climbing as climbing is for running.” Over the years, I’ve received more than a fair number of messages and emails about this statement. Although there…

In-Depth: The New Conditioning Template

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General Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is the third General Endurance Plan in the CS series, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1 and 2… This plan is simply one that utilizes some different sessions than we saw in 1 and 2. I’ll remind you that GE2 was a no-climbing-available plan. This plan, although do-able in a gym, requires…

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