Endurance

General Endurance Training Plan 1

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Here’s what you don’t want to hear. You don’t want me to tell you that the root of your problem might be a fundamental lack of athleticism, that you might be lacking the basic building blocks of not just climbing fitness, but general fitness as well. There is a bit of a yin/yang relationship when…

Specific Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is a third option in our specific endurance plans, after, Specific Endurance 1 and 2. This is the highest-volume plan and is somewhat of a progression over 1 and 2. To review from SE1: The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it relies on energy stored locally…

Specific Endurance Training Plan 2

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  This is a second option in our specific endurance plans, after, Specific Endurance 1, of course. This is not necessarily a progression from that plan, but is a slightly more intensive series of workouts.    To review from SE1: The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it…

High Load and Low Load Density Training

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by Steve Bechtel In the old days, we trained “endurance” by climbing easy moves until we got pumped and fell off. For me, this usually involved doing routes on toprope at Fremont Canyon, or traversing a long flagstone wall near the interstate in my hometown of Casper, Wyoming. The problem was this: Eventually, you got…

Specific Endurance Training Plan 1

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The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it relies on energy stored locally in the muscle, supplies dwindle immediately, and then are replenished via the aerobic system. This system is the one you use to do most strength and power training, and it is the one that kicks…

TS Strawberry Roan

Q+A: I’m Strong, But Have No Endurance

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Q: Hello Steve, I bought your newest book – Unstoppable Force -, because, well I want to get stronger ^^. I loved the book, most of the the knowledge and base principles that you share aren’t new for me, and that made me happy. My previous coach (not a climber) trained me with the same…

High / Low Training… What To Do and When.

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“In endurance, not only does the magnitude of fatigue matter, but also its nature.” – V. Zatsiorsky, 1966   Endurance – simply the ability to keep doing a task over and over – is something we all feel we need more of from time to time. The problem with gaining endurance is that there are…

In-Depth: Why Negative-Recovery Intervals Are of Dubious Value

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Improving Endurance – The Fundamental Factors

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Endurance in climbing comes down to four major objectives: First is the ability to sustain a given level of power output while moving up the wall. Beyond moving up the wall, endurance can mean the ability to recover at stances along the route. Endurance can also mean the ability to recover between efforts, such as…

Glycolytic Peaking Training Plan 341

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I would always hope for four of us in the gym on “Endurance Day.” The gym was a bedroom-sized room in the back of Todd Skinner’s garage, and it acted as the local climbing gym in the early days of climbing in Lander, Wyoming. The gym featured holds on all walls and across the ceiling,…

Training Beta Podcast 110 | Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

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Date: August 9th, 2018 About Steve Bechtel Steve Bechtel is a well-known climbing trainer, and I’ve had him on the podcast 3 other times now (here, here, and here). He’s a regular on the show because we all love listening to his common sense advice, his illustrative metaphors, and his wry humor so much. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website…

In-Depth: Capacity Training on Routes

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