Endurance

High / Low Training… What To Do and When.

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“In endurance, not only does the magnitude of fatigue matter, but also its nature.” – V. Zatsiorsky, 1966   Endurance – simply the ability to keep doing a task over and over – is something we all feel we need more of from time to time. The problem with gaining endurance is that there are…

In-Depth: Why Negative-Recovery Intervals Are of Dubious Value

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Improving Endurance – The Fundamental Factors

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Endurance in climbing comes down to four major objectives: First is the ability to sustain a given level of power output while moving up the wall. Beyond moving up the wall, endurance can mean the ability to recover at stances along the route. Endurance can also mean the ability to recover between efforts, such as…

Glycolytic Peaking Training Plan 341

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I would always hope for four of us in the gym on “Endurance Day.” The gym was a bedroom-sized room in the back of Todd Skinner’s garage, and it acted as the local climbing gym in the early days of climbing in Lander, Wyoming. The gym featured holds on all walls and across the ceiling,…

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Training Beta Podcast 110 | Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

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Date: August 9th, 2018 About Steve Bechtel Steve Bechtel is a well-known climbing trainer, and I’ve had him on the podcast 3 other times now (here, here, and here). He’s a regular on the show because we all love listening to his common sense advice, his illustrative metaphors, and his wry humor so much. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website…

In-Depth: Capacity Training on Routes

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Aerobic Capacity 1B – 6 week

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“You talk a lot about how easy it is to ramp up your endurance,” he said. “For me it’s not that easy. It seems like it takes months to build a decent base and then all my power is gone. What am I doing wrong?” I had almost the exact same conversation twice in a…

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Maintaining Endurance During Power and Strength cycles

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Hi Guys, Wondering what you are recommending for maintaining endurance during strength or power training cycles? Specifics on type, duration, and mode (i.e. treadwall, etc.) will help. G.S. G, Depending on what type of endurance you are trying to maintain, the recommendations can be pretty wide-ranging. If you are keeping a fairly high level of…

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ARC Training and High-Low

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Q: I have been doing a kind of high low thing recently and was wondering how you have been doing your ARC training? I have mainly been traversing because when I do ups and downs it is hard to keep it chilled enough. How do you do it? Cheers Cliff Hi Cliff, The hardest part…

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Work Capacity – Climbing Hard All Day Long (part 2)

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By Steve Bechtel “Work is never fun, especially when you’re measuring it in watts per hour.” – The Man In part two of this article, we’ll talk about contrasting work capacity (WC) with your normal strength training (ST), and why you really can’t maximally train both. In WC training, it’s all about tolerating a high,…

Chris’s Climbing Endurance Plan

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By Steve Bechtel It’s hard to write a specific plan for any facet of training, especially if you’re trying to target more than one athlete. There are just too many variables. A few years back, I wrote a short article on endurance training (Endurance 3.0) that explained how we look at training endurance for climbers.…

Rob Pizem, working for the first free ascent of the Frank Zappa Appreciation Society, 5.13+, Escalanta Canyon, CO

Running Away From Redpointing

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By Steve Bechtel Since the dawn of time, man has been obsessed with finding an easier way to get past hard work. Wonderful things like the wheel, the incline plane, and the internal combustion engine have helped us get past the drudgery and pain of too much tedium and work for too little reward. Much…

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