Endurance

Fundamentals of Endurance

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by Steve Bechtel I couldn’t even close my hands. I clawed at the huge holds, hoping the skin on my palms would tear a bit and give me a few seconds of purchase before I flew off into the sky below. My hips were slack. My footwork sloppy. Once again I flailed at the moves…

TRAIN: Intensive vs Extensive Endurance

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In-Depth: Capacity Training on Routes

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8-8-8 Endurance (12 Weeks)

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by Steve Bechtel The 8-8-8 Plan is a 12 week program aimed at making a long-term improvement in endurance capability. So often people go looking for a plan that will get them “in shape” for endurance, but only ever realize an endurance peak that takes them back to the same level that they previously attained….

The Nugget Climbing Podcast: Episode 35

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This was one of the favorite podcasts I’ve (Steve) ever done. Steven is a top-notch interviewer and is leading mind in climbing training, which made it easy to talk for a long time. Luckily, Steven is also a good editor!

Third Gear: The Aerobic Energy System

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by Steve Bechtel   A few years back, I was asked during an interview how important running is to climbing performance. Somewhat reactively, I said, “Running is as important for climbing as climbing is for running.” Over the years, I’ve received more than a fair number of messages and emails about this statement. Although there…

In-Depth: The New Conditioning Template

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General Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is the third General Endurance Plan in the CS series, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1 and 2… This plan is simply one that utilizes some different sessions than we saw in 1 and 2. I’ll remind you that GE2 was a no-climbing-available plan. This plan, although do-able in a gym, requires…

General Endurance Training Plan 2

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This is the second General Endurance Plan for the site, but isn’t necessarily a progression from GE 1…This one is built with the idea that no actual climbing is available to you. I built this for an athlete that was stationed in Afghanistan and had access to nothing but a hangboard, weight room, and cardio…

First Gear: The Anaerobic Alactic Energy System

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by Steve Bechtel Movement is the basis of climbing up rocks, and in order to move, we need to supply our body with energy. Since any and all movement can occur at multiple speeds, in different directions, and over different durations, our bodies have evolved to handle supplying the energy for moving in several ways….

General Endurance Training Plan 1

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Here’s what you don’t want to hear. You don’t want me to tell you that the root of your problem might be a fundamental lack of athleticism, that you might be lacking the basic building blocks of not just climbing fitness, but general fitness as well. There is a bit of a yin/yang relationship when…

Specific Endurance Training Plan 3

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This is a third option in our specific endurance plans, after, Specific Endurance 1 and 2. This is the highest-volume plan and is somewhat of a progression over 1 and 2. To review from SE1: The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it relies on energy stored locally…

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