Finger Strength

Five New Hangboard Sessions – Fall 2022

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Five New Hangboard Workouts – Fall 2022 by Steve Bechtel Trying to decide between doing repeaters and max hangs is like living in Paris and trying to decide between eating at McDonalds or Subway. Not only are there other options out there, some of them might actually be better. Hell, I can’t blame the average…

In-Depth: Go 100 Hangboard Sessions

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MOVE: Antagonist Strength Training

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As climbers, we tend to over-focus on isometric (static) finger strength. Work on getting your extensors strong, and your finger strength will go up.

MOVE: Training Single Finger Strength

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The Gift of Isolation

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by Steve Bechtel   In the spring of 2020 disaster struck the climbing gym industry when COVID-19 swept across the globe. Almost all gyms closed or at the very least had to restrict access. Although some could stay open, most operated at a huge loss. Even with government grants and loan assistance, the gym scene…

Melding Strength and Power

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by Steve Bechtel Too frequently, we try to over-categorize our training. Long-time athletes and coaches learned about training for climbing by reading about and practicing training that came from other sports. We all understood that strength and power and endurance were different entities, some of us going so far as to train all of these…

2-3-1 Finger Strength A

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by Steve Bechtel If you’ve been training for any amount of time, you are probably familiar with “staleness” in training – when you go flat despite trying harder, putting more weight on the bar, or upping the grades in your limit sessions. Most athletes will show a pretty standard pattern of going flat after around…

In-Depth: Simple Peak Force Testing with the Tindeq

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Base Strength 1

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When I say base, I mean base. This plan is a 4-week repeatable plan that is aimed at climbers who are coming off a layoff or who have not done any strength training before. It is a 3-day per week resistance training plan, with a little bit of climbing sprinkled in. You can do more…

Q+A: Finger Strength for Older Climbers?

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Q: Hi Steve, I’ve got a question about building finger strength in life’s latter half–as in, after the age of 50. I took many years off climbing, came about five years ago, and I’ve had a hard time rebuilding finger strength. I work out mostly at an indoor bouldering gym and I’ve found that I…

Q+A: What is the Easiest and Fastest Way to Get Strong?

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Hangboard + Core 1

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Getting stronger fingers requires heavy loading of the fingers. Heavy loading requires rest between sets. Resting between sets makes most of us feel like we are not working hard enough. Although the ideal rest times between hangs can be debated, the fact is that with maximum-effort hangs, more time between hangs is better. In order…

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