Finger Strength

Melding Strength and Power

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by Steve Bechtel Too frequently, we try to over-categorize our training. Long-time athletes and coaches learned about training for climbing by reading about and practicing training that came from other sports. We all understood that strength and power and endurance were different entities, some of us going so far as to train all of these…

2-3-1 Finger Strength A

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by Steve Bechtel If you’ve been training for any amount of time, you are probably familiar with “staleness” in training – when you go flat despite trying harder, putting more weight on the bar, or upping the grades in your limit sessions. Most athletes will show a pretty standard pattern of going flat after around…

In-Depth: Simple Peak Force Testing with the Tindeq

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Base Strength 1

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When I say base, I mean base. This plan is a 4-week repeatable plan that is aimed at climbers who are coming off a layoff or who have not done any strength training before. It is a 3-day per week resistance training plan, with a little bit of climbing sprinkled in. You can do more…

Q+A: Finger Strength for Older Climbers?

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Q: Hi Steve, I’ve got a question about building finger strength in life’s latter half–as in, after the age of 50. I took many years off climbing, came about five years ago, and I’ve had a hard time rebuilding finger strength. I work out mostly at an indoor bouldering gym and I’ve found that I…

Q+A: What is the Easiest and Fastest Way to Get Strong?

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Hangboard + Core 1

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Getting stronger fingers requires heavy loading of the fingers. Heavy loading requires rest between sets. Resting between sets makes most of us feel like we are not working hard enough. Although the ideal rest times between hangs can be debated, the fact is that with maximum-effort hangs, more time between hangs is better. In order…

The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan 2

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  TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 22 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions   I released the first World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan in 2017 or so, and it became really popular right away. The reason is partially its simplicity, but also its brevity. People were just starting to carry…

In-Depth: Enhancing Finger Strength Training with High-Threshold Isometrics

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In-Depth: Enhancing Finger Strength Training with High-Threshold Isometrics from Climb Strong on Vimeo.

In-Depth: Simple Finger Strength Testing

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Finger Strength 432 Plan – 6 session cycle – Medium, High, Low Volume

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Arguing about the merits of specific isometric finger strength protocols is a prime example of not seeing the forest for the trees. We brand a certain program as superior for this or perfect for that, but the biggest part of progress is doing it over long enough periods to see a relatively permanent change in…

Training Tip: Addressing Weak Hand Positions With Block Hangs

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