Finger Strength
Hangboard + Core 1
Tags: Core Strength, Finger Strength, Off Season
Getting stronger fingers requires heavy loading of the fingers. Heavy loading requires rest between sets. Resting between sets makes most of us feel like we are not working hard enough. Although the ideal rest times between hangs can be debated, the fact is that with maximum-effort hangs, more time between hangs is better. In order…
The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan 2
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, quick workouts, Simplest Hangboard Plan, Training Plans
TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 22 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions I released the first World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan in 2017 or so, and it became really popular right away. The reason is partially its simplicity, but also its brevity. People were just starting to carry…
In-Depth: Enhancing Finger Strength Training with High-Threshold Isometrics
Tags: Finger Strength, integrated strength, Isometric
In-Depth: Enhancing Finger Strength Training with High-Threshold Isometrics from Climb Strong on Vimeo.
Finger Strength 432 Plan – 6 session cycle – Medium, High, Low Volume
Tags: Finger Strength, finger training, Grip Strength, Hangboard, Training Plans
Arguing about the merits of specific isometric finger strength protocols is a prime example of not seeing the forest for the trees. We brand a certain program as superior for this or perfect for that, but the biggest part of progress is doing it over long enough periods to see a relatively permanent change in…
In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs
Tags: 7:13, Finger Strength, Hangboard, in-depth video
In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs from Climb Strong on Vimeo.
The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan
Tags: Bouldering Training, Finger Strength, Hangboard
TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 6 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions As if complicating things made them somehow more effective. If you have not been training at all, the most effective solution is to start easy. On the flip-side, if you are bogged down by timing and…
Developing General Grip Strength
Tags: Finger Strength, finger training, Grip Strength, grip training
In the old days, training “specifically” for climbing was almost unheard of. You either just climbed or you were one of the few climbers who trained in the weight room and did some door jamb pull-ups. Over the years, things changed. As climbs got hard and more physically challenging we sought out ways to beat…
Integrated Strength
Tags: Finger Strength, foundation, Hangboard, integrated strength
Combining Hangboard and Weight Training for Maximum Climbing Strength Introduction Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise – focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops. Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to…
Q+A: Optimum Time Under Tension for Finger Strength
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, Q+A, time under tension
Q: Hey Steve and Charlie, Alex, and everyone, Thanks again for the great coaching conference last month. So much info my head is still exploding. One thing I didn’t ask or don’t remember covering: What is the best zone to aim for as far as time under tension on the fingerboard? How much per session?…
In-Depth: 3-6-9 Hangboard Ladders
Tags: 3-6-9, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Hangboard Ladders, in-depth video
In-Depth: 3-6-9 Hangboard Ladders from Climb Strong on Vimeo. There tends to be a need to complicate the hangboard ladder protocol. Don’t complicate it.