finger training

MOVE: Training Single Finger Strength

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Finger Strength 432 Plan – 6 session cycle – Medium, High, Low Volume

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Arguing about the merits of specific isometric finger strength protocols is a prime example of not seeing the forest for the trees. We brand a certain program as superior for this or perfect for that, but the biggest part of progress is doing it over long enough periods to see a relatively permanent change in…

Training Tip: Addressing Weak Hand Positions With Block Hangs

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Alex Bridgewater Pinch Block Hang, Photo by Mei Ratz

Developing General Grip Strength

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In the old days, training “specifically” for climbing was almost unheard of. You either just climbed or you were one of the few climbers who trained in the weight room and did some door jamb pull-ups. Over the years, things changed. As climbs got hard and more physically challenging we sought out ways to beat…

Go A Hundred – Finger Strength Plan

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Plan Length: 4-12 weeks Weekly Sessions: 3-4 Session Duration: less than 20 minutes Finger strength is indisputably useful in climbing and having more of it usually helps you get better. For many of us, enough finger strength can make up for a lack of technique or power. As much as we’d like to gain this…

Training Beta Podcast 036 | Steve Bechtel on Climbing as Training, Periodization Confusion, Change Psychology and more

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My second interview with Training Beta went in depth on change psychology, confusion on periodization, practice techniques, and more. Please listen below. Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: November 25th, 2015 About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber…

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