Fitness
Just Do Work
Tags: capacity, climbing, Fitness, Micah Elconin, Tactics
By Micah Elconin There are few absolute truths in athletic training, but this might be one of them. General qualities should be developed before seeking to create specific adaptations. Build the engine before you start fiddling with components. One might also point out that racing with an inferior or neglected engine is not really a…
Work Capacity – Climbing Hard All Day Long (part 2)
Tags: Alpine Training, Endurance, Fitness, Stamina, Work Capacity
By Steve Bechtel “Work is never fun, especially when you’re measuring it in watts per hour.” – The Man In part two of this article, we’ll talk about contrasting work capacity (WC) with your normal strength training (ST), and why you really can’t maximally train both. In WC training, it’s all about tolerating a high,…
Work Capacity – Climbing Hard All Day Long (part 1)
Tags: Alpine Training, Endurance, Fitness, Stamina, Work Capacity
By Steve Bechtel Most of the articles I write are aimed at improving performance in single-pitch rock climbing. Understandably, there are big questions when it comes to converting your single-pitch fitness into longer efforts such as big walls or alpine routes. When it comes to performing at a high level for a long day or…