Hangboard
Advancing Training Load
Tags: Hangboard, Planning, Resistance Training
If you haven’t heard by now, the way you get better at doing harder things is to do harder things. If you are constantly playing it safe, building volume, and avoiding discomfort, well guess what – you’d better get used to doing the same routes over and over again. For those who want to advance,…
The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan 2
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, quick workouts, Simplest Hangboard Plan, Training Plans
TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 22 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions I released the first World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan in 2017 or so, and it became really popular right away. The reason is partially its simplicity, but also its brevity. People were just starting to carry…
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Finger Strength 432 Plan – 6 session cycle – Medium, High, Low Volume
Tags: Finger Strength, finger training, Grip Strength, Hangboard, Training Plans
Arguing about the merits of specific isometric finger strength protocols is a prime example of not seeing the forest for the trees. We brand a certain program as superior for this or perfect for that, but the biggest part of progress is doing it over long enough periods to see a relatively permanent change in…
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In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs
Tags: 7:13, Finger Strength, Hangboard, in-depth video
In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs from Climb Strong on Vimeo.
In-Depth: Hangboard Warm-Up
Tags: Hangboard, in-depth video, Warm-Ups
In-Depth: Hangboard Warm-Up from Climb Strong on Vimeo.
Intermittent Hangs for Finger Strength
Tags: Hangboard, intermittent hangs, Repeaters, Training Plans
I have been opposed to time-driven strength sessions for most of my career. This position is based on the fact that load is the most important factor in gaining strength and taking the time to provide enough load each session is key. This means that worrying about holding rest periods to a specific length should…
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The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan
Tags: Bouldering Training, Finger Strength, Hangboard
TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 6 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions As if complicating things made them somehow more effective. If you have not been training at all, the most effective solution is to start easy. On the flip-side, if you are bogged down by timing and…
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Integrated Strength
Tags: Finger Strength, foundation, Hangboard, integrated strength
Combining Hangboard and Weight Training for Maximum Climbing Strength Introduction Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise – focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops. Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to…