Hangboard

Q+A: Hangboarding, Even For Beginners!?!

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Q: In the Pitch One training plan you call for hangboard training without qualification for even “novice trainees”. I have read in more than one source that hangboard training should not start for novices until about 2 years into climbing. Do your views on this differ from what I thought was the prevailing wisdom on…

Q+A: Hangboards Versus Blocks

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Q: What are your thoughts on hangboarding versus a handheld finger trainer that you hang weights from? Is there a benefit to one or the other or do they produce similar results? M.T.   A: In spirit, both tools are the same. One of the big hopes of people training with weight hung from block-style…

Melding Strength and Power

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by Steve Bechtel Too frequently, we try to over-categorize our training. Long-time athletes and coaches learned about training for climbing by reading about and practicing training that came from other sports. We all understood that strength and power and endurance were different entities, some of us going so far as to train all of these…

In Depth: Adding General Grip Exercises to Hangboard Sessions

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In-Depth: Simple Strength Cycling – Weekly Volume Variation

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Advancing Training Load

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If you haven’t heard by now, the way you get better at doing harder things is to do harder things. If you are constantly playing it safe, building volume, and avoiding discomfort, well guess what – you’d better get used to doing the same routes over and over again. For those who want to advance,…

The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan 2

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  TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 22 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions   I released the first World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan in 2017 or so, and it became really popular right away. The reason is partially its simplicity, but also its brevity. People were just starting to carry…

Finger Strength 432 Plan – 6 session cycle – Medium, High, Low Volume

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Arguing about the merits of specific isometric finger strength protocols is a prime example of not seeing the forest for the trees. We brand a certain program as superior for this or perfect for that, but the biggest part of progress is doing it over long enough periods to see a relatively permanent change in…

In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs

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In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs from Climb Strong on Vimeo.

In-Depth: Hangboard Warm-Up

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In-Depth: Hangboard Warm-Up from Climb Strong on Vimeo.

In-Depth: “Go A Hundred” Hangboard Sessions

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Intermittent Hangs for Finger Strength

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I have been opposed to time-driven strength sessions for most of my career. This position is based on the fact that load is the most important factor in gaining strength and taking the time to provide enough load each session is key. This means that worrying about holding rest periods to a specific length should…

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