Hangboard

Finger Strength 432 Plan – 6 session cycle – Medium, High, Low Volume

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Arguing about the merits of specific isometric finger strength protocols is a prime example of not seeing the forest for the trees. We brand a certain program as superior for this or perfect for that, but the biggest part of progress is doing it over long enough periods to see a relatively permanent change in…

In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs

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In-Depth: 7:13 Intermittent Hangs from Climb Strong on Vimeo.

Intermittent Hangs for Finger Strength

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I have been opposed to time-driven strength sessions for most of my career. This position is based on the fact that load is the most important factor in gaining strength and taking the time to provide enough load each session is key. This means that worrying about holding rest periods to a specific length should…

The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan

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TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 6 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions   As if complicating things made them somehow more effective. If you have not been training at all, the most effective solution is to start easy. On the flip-side, if you are bogged down by timing and…

In-Depth: Predicting the 1-Second Max Hang

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Integrated Strength

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Combining Hangboard and Weight Training for Maximum Climbing Strength   Introduction Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise – focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops. Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to…

Q+A: Optimum Time Under Tension for Finger Strength

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Q: Hey Steve and Charlie, Alex, and everyone, Thanks again for the great coaching conference last month. So much info my head is still exploding. One thing I didn’t ask or don’t remember covering: What is the best zone to aim for as far as time under tension on the fingerboard? How much per session?…

In-Depth: 3-6-9 Hangboard Ladders

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In-Depth: 3-6-9 Hangboard Ladders from Climb Strong on Vimeo. There tends to be a need to complicate the hangboard ladder protocol. Don’t complicate it.

Go A Hundred – Finger Strength Plan

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Plan Length: 4-12 weeks Weekly Sessions: 3-4 Session Duration: less than 20 minutes Finger strength is indisputably useful in climbing and having more of it usually helps you get better. For many of us, enough finger strength can make up for a lack of technique or power. As much as we’d like to gain this…

Hacking the Zlagboard Contest

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If you’ve never done a 20mm edge static hang to absolute failure, you’re missing out. This pleasure cruise of forearm endurance is not to be missed. I had the chance to try out the Zlagboard Contest a couple of years ago. The contest involves one simple test: grab the “medium” sized edges on the board…

Jordan Jack Demonstrates a Push Up in Climb Strong Class B&W

Variations on Integrated Strength

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We’ve been training strength for a long time. For years, I struggled with just how to fit all the hangboard training, general strength training, and supporting exercises in a normal climber’s week. Many of us try to get by without the extra work, opting to just go climbing instead. A look at the big picture,…

Session Ordering With Multiple Hangboard

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Q: My impression from the book is that a suggested ordering of session types is strength-power-endurance, and these are rotated through during the training cycle. I.e. if you do a strength session, your next training session is power. I also recall Steve saying in a podcast that he suggests doing more strength work during the offseason,…

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