Intensive Endurance

route climbing b&w

Endurance 3.0

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by Steve Bechtel Of all the facets of training for climbing, I think training for endurance is the most controversial and misunderstood. Most of us agree that a hangboard is the best way to build finger strength and that bouldering on an indoor wall is a good way to build power, but what about endurance?…

Route Climbing Endurance 2

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Once you’re strong, then next most important facet to train for hard redpointing is your aerobic capacity, or endurance base as it’s sometimes called. For the past 20 years or so, climbers have participated in Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity (ARC) sessions to address this need. Although ARC training can be of great benefit to many…

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The Simplest Climbing Training Plan

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This program features a three week alternating cycle, aimed at keeping you close to top form for long cycles. Motivated athletes are more successful; if you need some down-time between phases, this is not the plan for you.For years, a large percentage of my emails from the climbers on this site have been about periodization…

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Zach Snavely Kettlebell b&w

414 Redpoint Training Plan

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I have written extensively in articles about the limitations of normal periodized climbing training plans, as well as the clear limits of “just going climbing.” Somewhere in the magic space between lies the Shangri-La of climbing training programs. I can’t say that I have found it, but as we continue the discussion and experimentation, we…

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