Intervals

Alactic Power Training Plan 1

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The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it relies on energy stored locally in the muscle, supplies dwindle immediately, and then are replenished via the aerobic system. This system is the one you use to do most strength and power training, and it is the one that kicks…

Q+A: Longer Duration Intervals As A Sustainable Part of Base Training?

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Q: Anaerobic Capacity. Do you think longer duration anaerobic intervals at a 1:4 work/ rest ratio can be a sustainable part of a ‘base phase’? Alex Barrows suggests 45 seconds work interval with a 1:4 work rest. In the PCC we used 10 seconds work interval with a 1:5 work to rest. Is the 45…

In-Depth: Non-Specific Alactic Interval Combos

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In-Depth: Why Negative-Recovery Intervals Are of Dubious Value

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Glycolytic Peaking Training Plan 341

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I would always hope for four of us in the gym on “Endurance Day.” The gym was a bedroom-sized room in the back of Todd Skinner’s garage, and it acted as the local climbing gym in the early days of climbing in Lander, Wyoming. The gym featured holds on all walls and across the ceiling,…

Training Beta Podcast 110 | Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

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Date: August 9th, 2018 About Steve Bechtel Steve Bechtel is a well-known climbing trainer, and I’ve had him on the podcast 3 other times now (here, here, and here). He’s a regular on the show because we all love listening to his common sense advice, his illustrative metaphors, and his wry humor so much. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website…

Maintaining Endurance During Power and Strength cycles

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Hi Guys, Wondering what you are recommending for maintaining endurance during strength or power training cycles? Specifics on type, duration, and mode (i.e. treadwall, etc.) will help. G.S. G, Depending on what type of endurance you are trying to maintain, the recommendations can be pretty wide-ranging. If you are keeping a fairly high level of…

Chris’s Climbing Endurance Plan

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By Steve Bechtel It’s hard to write a specific plan for any facet of training, especially if you’re trying to target more than one athlete. There are just too many variables. A few years back, I wrote a short article on endurance training (Endurance 3.0) that explained how we look at training endurance for climbers….

Max Sport Climbing, Looking for Next Move

Progressing Endurance Training II

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by Steve Bechtel You’ve tried ARC training and you’ve done your share of 4x4s, so why do you still come peeling off the wall just before you reach the anchors? What is it about your energy system development that isn’t working? It might be that you aren’t progressing your sessions, or it might be that…

Close Up Image of Campus Board B&W, Photo by Mei Ratz

Progressing Endurance Training I

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By Steve Bechtel The email subject line read “Help!!” Opening it, I saw no fewer than 20 paragraphs describing how the sender wasn’t sending despite “religiously” following one of the plans I’d put together. There was no doubt, the climber was training. It was clear she was training hard and adding difficulty to her sessions….

Angled View of Campus Board, Photo By Mei Ratz

Advances in How We Look at Density Training

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by Steve Bechtel When you look at intensifying training, there are really just a few ways to make it happen, each having a different result. You can increase the volume of training, such as doing more total pitches in a climbing day. You can increase the intensity of the training, such as trying to do…

Another Way To Endure

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By Steve Bechtel Endurance training comes in many forms and it can be argued that any climbing you do that makes you tired makes you better at enduring fatigue. As I’ve said before, most climbers who boulder indoors are, in fact, training endurance when they think they’re training power. Problem is, they are training an…

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