Jacob Carr

Execution Volume 3: The Path to Being The Best Climber You Can Be

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  by Jacob Carr   Action. This Is The Way. Now that you have a framework on how to attack a project-level route and a way to practice execution in the gym you can now put them into practice and allow yourself to perform on the rock. You can act on what you want. You…

Execution Vol 2: Developing Responsibility for Yourself

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by Jacob Carr The next step in execution will refer to your tactics around redpoint climbing. How do you spend your time at the crag? You can handle an undirected crag day by learning how to take responsibility for yourself and what you accomplish on a given climbing day. This means, deciding what your intentions…

Execution Vol 1: Better People Make Better Climbers

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by Jacob Carr I get the hunch that most climbers, if they were asked, would rather not train for climbing. Ever. If they could, they would be the best version of themselves on the rock by just climbing, no hangboarding-only redpointing flawlessly. If you’ve read anything by Steve Bechtel you’ve probably heard him say, “If…

New Year, Different Resolution

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by Jacob Carr Welcome to the new year! Congratulations on setting your new resolution, it is no small task to think about resolutions, goals, etc. let alone setting and executing them. One of the things I love about setting aside time for these types of actions is that it provides us time to reflect and…

Hang Fire

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by Jacob Carr Training programs, like a lot of things, are important to keep you on track to stay in line with your goals. They work a lot better than going to the gym and doing 20 minutes of abs, a few hangs, and then chatting with your friends in the bouldering gym. Not that…

Velocity Loss Training

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by Jacob Carr Strength training takes time and effort. And when training pure strength, it can be taxing on the nervous system. What if there was a way to decrease your feelings of fatigue and increase your training efficiency? New research has come out that describes a way to do just that. By paying attention…

Get Strong Using Reps In Reserve

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by Jacob Carr When thinking about our strength workouts, we often aim for a specific rep range or rate of perceived exertion (RPE) at a specific load. This is a tried and true method of strength training, and when put into practice can produce great strength results. I recently had an athlete struggling to make…

Catch 22

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by Jacob Carr At the age of 49, 6 days before his 50th birthday, Kelly Slater won the Pipeline Pro with a performance well above his competitors. His performance wasn’t necessarily amazing because of the way he surfed, but how he surfed. His tactics, his positioning, his poise was still head and shoulders above his…

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