Micah Elconin
Foundations of Power
Tags: Micah Elconin, Power, Power Training, Training Plans
by Micah Elconin Introduction Admittedly, this was an experiment. I’ve consistently strength trained for most of my multi decade climbing career and seem to be a relatively strong human given my age, history etc. Sure, there’s always some weak links I’m looking to shore up, but as a general rule, I know that strength is…
The Rapture of Performance
Tags: climbing, Micah Elconin, Performance, Practice, Tactics
By Micah Elconin The season is changing. As temps drop and days shorten, I feel a sense of urgency ignite inside me. It’s performance season. For better or worse, cool dry air tends to make rock a bit stickier. So most of us count on the Fall for creating conditions that support big goals. Yet,…
Partnership
Tags: climbing, Fitness, Micah Elconin, Practice, Tactics
By Micah Elconin Whether you like it or not, climbing is generally a social activity. Someone has to hold the other end of the rope for those redpoint attempts and my guess is you’d rather have a few extra pads and a spot when topping out that high boulder problem. Finding a climbing partner can…
Becoming the Practitioner
Tags: climbing, Fitness, Micah Elconin, Practice, Tactics
By Micah Elconin “What is the difference between practicing and being a practitioner?” Ido Portal poses this question in a recent blog posted to his youtube channel. Ido teaches a system of physical training that he calls “movement culture.” His methods pull from a variety of sources integrating the martial arts, yoga, dance, strength training,…
Just Do Work
Tags: capacity, climbing, Fitness, Micah Elconin, Tactics
By Micah Elconin There are few absolute truths in athletic training, but this might be one of them. General qualities should be developed before seeking to create specific adaptations. Build the engine before you start fiddling with components. One might also point out that racing with an inferior or neglected engine is not really a…
Climb Better Than Ever in 14 Days!
Tags: better than ever, climbing, Micah Elconin, Tactics
By Micah Elconin Did I get your attention? Are you searching for the magic bullet that will instantly transform you into a stone crushing Crankenstein that eats hard rock climbs for breakfast? I sure hope not. The truth is, there is no magic bullet. My sincere hope is that if you’re reading this piece,…
Love Your Local Stone
Tags: climbing, Local, Micah Elconin, Tactics
By Micah Elconin Climbing culture tends to revere the road warrior life working from the assumption that the most important climbing to do is somewhere else – that our highest goals and dreams should live in a place far from here. However, many of us are not fully savoring the lowest hanging fruit that is…
Momentum
Tags: climbing, Micah Elconin, Movement, Tactics
By Micah Elconin My buddy Elijah claims his power animal is the sloth. If you’ve seen him climb, this might make more sense. He moves amazingly slow and almost appears to be falling asleep at rests. The man rarely moves with any sense of urgency (on or off the wall), but he’s a damn good…
Climb Them All
Tags: climbing, John Sullivan photo, Micah Elconin, Movement, Tactics
By Micah Elconin Eugene, Oregon is not famous for its rock climbing. My home for more than a decade is better known for its hippy communes and track athletes. So, it’s not surprising that climbers from out of the area usually have one of two responses when learning where I’m from. “So, you must climb…
Train Like You (Should) Eat
Tags: Micah Elconin, Nutrition, Planning
by Micah Elconin Long before my career coaching rock climbers, I worked as a private chef. My niche was healthy cooking and menu planning for those on restricted diets. I worked with all sorts of clients. From those battling cancer to the rich and famous, I developed and prepared menus that fit the specific wants,…