Nutrition

Bah Humbug to Your Holiday Food Restrictions

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By Taylor Carr, MS, ISSN-SNS, PN1   It’s the most wonderful time of the year. Time for family to gather together and give thanks. Time to put up the Christmas tree or light the menorah. And, of course, time to bake those delicious holiday treats! As a nutritionist, this time of year brings a lot…

Keto or Ke-NO

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By Taylor Carr, MS, ISSN-SNS, PN1   Keto: the diet that can curb your appetite, enhance your performance, and speed your fat loss. You’re probably thinking this is too good to be true. And you would most likely be correct! We all want to believe that bacon, butter, and shredded cheese is “for our health”…

PRACTICE: Protein Intake for Climbers

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Train Like You (Should) Eat

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by Micah Elconin Long before my career coaching rock climbers, I worked as a private chef. My niche was healthy cooking and menu planning for those on restricted diets. I worked with all sorts of clients. From those battling cancer to the rich and famous, I developed and prepared menus that fit the specific wants,…

THINK: Nutrition at the Crag

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Fundamentals of Energy Expenditure

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Taylor Carr, MS Sports Nutrition, MS Strength and Conditioning Energy is something I never seem to have enough of. After I rush to work each morning, I spend 8 hours pushing others to get stronger. Then I come home to make dinner with little motivation. And where does that leave me for my evening training…

In-Depth: Choosing Foods Based on Nutrient Density

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Recovery Training

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We get good at pushing hard into training. We all have been in that super-pumped zone or so sore we can barely move the next day, or so exhausted from a week’s training that we stay on the couch the whole weekend. As good as learning to go hard is, there is a critical Yang…

Optimal Climbing Weight

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Q: Specifically I would like to know more about effective ways to reduce unnecessary muscle mass from the legs. I come from a road bike racing background and so I have more muscle on my thighs and butt than necessary for climbing (or mostly anything besides racing a bicycle) and I would like to slim…

Golden

Getting Back to Top Form Quickly

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By Steve Bechtel In a perfect world, we’d redpoint hard routes every weekend, all year long. We’d always feel recovered, and we’d be able to boulder at our limit one day and free big walls the next. But in this world, we have obligations, injuries, and seasons that keep us from climbing well for large…

Alex Bridgewater Demonstrates Kettlebell Deadlift, Photo by Mei Ratz

8 Things To Do Before You Open Your Wallet

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by Steve Bechtel I wrote a newsletter a few months back where I discussed the idea of “big rocks first.” The general gist is to take care of the most important things in your life before you obsess about the minutiae. People, not just climbers, tend to fixate on the wrong things. We obsess over…

Steve Bechtel on Campus Board, Back View, Photo by Mei Ratz

Training Considerations for Older Climbers

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By Steve Bechtel Climbing is a lifetime sport. Unlike, say, gymnastics or football, you can expect to climb and climb well for many many years. Due to the multifaceted nature of the sport and training considerations for older climbers, you can improve factors such as technique and endurance even with the natural decline in strength…

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