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In-Depth: Performance Goals and Training Goals

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Rob Pizem, working for the first free ascent of the Frank Zappa Appreciation Society, 5.13+, Escalanta Canyon, CO

In-Season Strength – Program Minimum

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These days, climbers are well aware of the need to gain strength in the off-season. Many climbers I hear from spend much of the winter allocating time to the weight room and the hangboard. Where the system can break down is when someone quits strength training cold-turkey to switch to climbing full-time. There’s no arguing…

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Climbing Overhang

Bridge Season Training

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A “bridge” is a high-intensity training program that links two close-together peaks of fitness. Frequently, we see climbers ramp-up for the summer season, only to see fitness drift off after a month or so. This comes as no surprise to coaches and physiologists, as it is simply a result of too much intensity too soon…

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