Planning

Get Strong Using Reps In Reserve

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by Jacob Carr When thinking about our strength workouts, we often aim for a specific rep range or rate of perceived exertion (RPE) at a specific load. This is a tried and true method of strength training, and when put into practice can produce great strength results. I recently had an athlete struggling to make…

Train Like You (Should) Eat

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by Micah Elconin Long before my career coaching rock climbers, I worked as a private chef. My niche was healthy cooking and menu planning for those on restricted diets. I worked with all sorts of clients. From those battling cancer to the rich and famous, I developed and prepared menus that fit the specific wants,…

Catch 22

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by Jacob Carr At the age of 49, 6 days before his 50th birthday, Kelly Slater won the Pipeline Pro with a performance well above his competitors. His performance wasn’t necessarily amazing because of the way he surfed, but how he surfed. His tactics, his positioning, his poise was still head and shoulders above his…

THINK: Everything is Too Much

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In-Depth: How To Keep A Useful Training Log

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Tactical Periodization

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by Steve Bechtel The first time I worked out, I was amazed at how hard repeating a specific move over and over again could feel. I had been in PE class and had played around with other kids my whole life, but when I joined the football team in fifth grade was the first time…

In-Depth: Alternating Linear Periodization

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Should I Train Today?

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by Steve Bechtel Well, the obvious answer is, “yes,” but that would make a short article. Let’s go deeper.  You love climbing and you desperately want to do it better. Your tendency is to go hard every session because somehow you think that you could give just a little more and something magical will happen…

In-Depth: Overexpectation of Training Results

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In-Depth: How Much Time Do You Really Have For Training?

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In-Depth: Volume and Intensity Variability

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Developmental and Maintenance Loads

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by Steve Bechtel We can train to improve or train to hold our ground. This is an important distinction, and one worth keeping in mind when you are training. Most of us think only in terms of trying to get better – to push more weight, to hold smaller crimps, etc. Most of us think…

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