Power Endurance

In-Season Training (Power-Endurance Redpointing) – Weekends Only Climbing

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by Steve Bechtel The vast majority of climbers hold two things in common: They like to send. They have to work.   Short of taking a month off work every time you’re in peak shape, you’ve got to use a training plan that is going to get you to the weekend topped up of fitness…

Optimizing First Gear: Training The Alactic Energy System

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By Steve Bechtel Anyone who has been in sports for very long has probably heard of the energy systems, or the ways in which our bodies supply energy. When we run down a road for an hour, we are producing energy from a different source than when we pick up a heavy barbell. And when…

Build Big Endurance With 3:2 Intervals

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By Steve Bechtel If you have been training for climbing very long, you’ve probably come across the idea of doing some kind of interval in order to help improve your endurance. Even a person that is totally focused on bouldering is going to need to tap into their ability to endure longer durations of power…

Sixteen: An Odyssey Into Endurance

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By Steve Bechtel Training sessions have a way of being sneaky when we look at them on paper. We look at something like “5×5 at 80%” and it doesn’t seem all that hard. Nor does “4 pitches at 2nd tier.” Nor does “Do five pull-ups. Add two per day for 30 days.” Much like the…

Detraining

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By Steve Bechtel The cool thing about studying one field for a long time is that you start to identify the core principles of how that field works. You start to understand that it shares principles with other fields. And you start to see that everyone who advances in the sport must follow those principles….

Endurance Training Revisited, Again, Redux

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By Steve Bechtel Endurance is the ability to display power or strength over time. It can be of continuous, high intensity, or it can be intermittent in nature. There are many different ways that endurance shows up in our sport, and there are a few key lessons to take home before we start equating simply…

Fundamentals of Endurance

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by Steve Bechtel I couldn’t even close my hands. I clawed at the huge holds, hoping the skin on my palms would tear a bit and give me a few seconds of purchase before I flew off into the sky below. My hips were slack. My footwork sloppy. Once again I flailed at the moves…

In-Depth: Increasing Local Strength Endurance

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“Quick Questions” and Not-So-Simple Answers

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Q: Hey Steve, I just finished listening to your podcast interview (1) and I had a quick question (2) about the workouts in Logical Progression (3). It sounds like the program doesn’t have very much hangboarding (4) and I feel like this is really an important workout for me (5). Then you said something about…

Alactic Interval Training – Progression and Transition

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by Steve Bechtel This article is not so much an introduction to short interval training, but a “what to do next” article when you’re already implementing alactic intervals. Alactic intervals are designed to train your highest power system and teach your body to recover quickly from maximal efforts. These sessions also seek to increase the…

In-Depth: Aerobic Deficiency and More

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In-Depth: Very Specific Endurance

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