Power Training

Climbing Shoes and Backpack, Photo by Mei Ratz

The Speed Barrier

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by Steve Bechtel “Here lies the contradiction of developing speed. On the one hand, to increase speed, the movement must be repeated many times, but on the other hand, the more repetitions, the stronger the speed barrier grows. Increasing the amount of work does not help; on the contrary, it consolidates the speed barrier.” –…

In-Depth: Power Bouldering / Power Campus

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In-Depth: Power Bouldering / Power Campus from Climb Strong on Vimeo.

In-Depth: The Kettlebell Clean

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In-Depth: The Kettlebell Clean from Climb Strong on Vimeo. The kettlebell clean is the easiest and safest way to bring the bell from the floor to rack position. It is a precursor to the squat, press, windmill, and other exercises. Start as you would for a single arm swing, in the standard “hike” position. Swing…

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In-Depth: Assessing Readiness to Train

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How do you know if you’re ready for a hard session? Feel good? No soreness? It might not be that simple.

Box Jump

Training Power in the Weight Room

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“Power,” said Hassan Saab, “If you’re talking about it, you ain’t got it.” In hard climbing, power is everything. When we reach our limits, whether they be 5.11 or 5.15, we start having to use speed and momentum to get between the holds. Most climbers recognize this and train for it specifically – buy using…

Climbing Magazine | Training – TALES OF POWER by Steve Bechtel

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The real secret to effective power training You can train long or you can train hard, but not both – which is probably why so many of us train power so wrongly.¬†(By “power,” we mean the product of strength and speed, i.e., the explosive force recruited any time you use momentum, or “go for it.”)¬†Properly¬†training…

Cedric Bouldering

Volume-Driven Bouldering Plan

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By Steve Bechtel Here is what a bouldering session looks like for probably 90% of all climbers everywhere. Show up when friends suggest showing up. Warm-Up by doing some “easy” problems. Start working some “hard” problems, rest as needed. Finish up with some more “easy” problems. As silly as this looks when you see it…

A Child Climbs in a Bouldering Gym B&W

Sessions For Any Climbing Gym

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By Steve Bechtel One of the biggest barriers to effective progress as a rock climber, ironically, can be training sessions in a commercial climbing gym. Oh, sure, there are good gyms around, but they’re rare and many lack certain very useful things. These things can range from lacking a good hangboard, to limited hours, to…

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