Programming

In Depth: Returning to Training After Isolation

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In-Depth: Programming At-Home Training

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In-Depth: Volume and Intensity Variability

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In-Depth: Developmental and Maintenance Loads

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Pendulum Plans

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By Steve Bechtel Program design is complex. Figuring out how to arrive at the weekend fresh for climbing is tough enough, let alone building a high peak for a trip or competition. For years, climbers have tested out different versions of periodized programs, mostly stolen from track and field or weightlifting. In typical periodized plans,…

In-Depth: 13 x 4-Week Cycles

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Fundamentals of Program Design

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It has never been a better time to be a performance-oriented rock climber. In the past few years there has been an explosion of good information on training, and a huge number of great tools to help you train. From better handhold designs, to improved hangboards, to ingenious tools such as the Tension Block, we…

Q+A: What Training Plan Should I Do After PITCH ONE?

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Q: Hello, I just finished the 4 week Pitch One training plan. What do you suggest as the next plan? Thanks, Joel   A: Hi Joel, It really depends on what you are aiming for. With our CS Team athletes, we generally follow a general strength program by a more specific program aimed at their…

Q+A: Triphasic Training in Climbing?

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Q: Do you think there is value to incorporating triphasic training principles in climbing? Forearm curls seem to be a place where they could be applied. If yes, when would you add it. I am on a non-linear program with s strength day, power day and power endurance day. I also have bar campus rings…

More Block Periodization Explanation

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There was a thread comparing different periodization strategies over at Mountain Project (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization–non-linear-periodization/108438729 ). I wrote this explanation to contrast this model with the classical model. Not sure if it’s necessary here or not…   I remember when I first read about periodization. It was revelatory in an almost religious sense. Finally there was a clear…

Climbing Notes in Notebook with Pen

Write It Down – The Value of a Training Log

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by Steve Bechtel When I first sit down with a new athlete, the first thing I ask them is where they want to go. The question usually goes like this: “In six months, what do you want to have accomplished?” That part is easy for most of us – the dreaming is not hard to…

Steve Bechtel Dead Lift with Barbell, Photo by Mei Ratz

“Two set of two?” and Other Questions

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by Steve Bechtel It’s funny the questions you get after an interview. At the end of 2015, I had the great honor of talking to Neely Quinn at Training Beta for a second time, and had a good chat with Kris Hampton for his new podcast that summer. The format is challenging and I felt…

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