Programming

In-Depth: Programming At-Home Training

Tags: , ,

In-Depth: Volume and Intensity Variability

Tags: , , ,

In-Depth: Developmental and Maintenance Loads

Tags: , , ,

Pendulum Plans

Tags: , ,

By Steve Bechtel Program design is complex. Figuring out how to arrive at the weekend fresh for climbing is tough enough, let alone building a high peak for a trip or competition. For years, climbers have tested out different versions of periodized programs, mostly stolen from track and field or weightlifting. In typical periodized plans,…

In-Depth: 13 x 4-Week Cycles

Tags: ,

Fundamentals of Program Design

Tags: , , ,

It has never been a better time to be a performance-oriented rock climber. In the past few years there has been an explosion of good information on training, and a huge number of great tools to help you train. From better handhold designs, to improved hangboards, to ingenious tools such as the Tension Block, we…

Q+A: What Training Plan Should I Do After PITCH ONE?

Tags: , ,

Q: Hello, I just finished the 4 week Pitch One training plan. What do you suggest as the next plan? Thanks, Joel   A: Hi Joel, It really depends on what you are aiming for. With our CS Team athletes, we generally follow a general strength program by a more specific program aimed at their…

Q+A: Triphasic Training in Climbing?

Tags: , , , ,

Q: Do you think there is value to incorporating triphasic training principles in climbing? Forearm curls seem to be a place where they could be applied. If yes, when would you add it. I am on a non-linear program with s strength day, power day and power endurance day. I also have bar campus rings…

More Block Periodization Explanation

Tags: , , ,

There was a thread comparing different periodization strategies over at Mountain Project (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization–non-linear-periodization/108438729 ). I wrote this explanation to contrast this model with the classical model. Not sure if it’s necessary here or not…   I remember when I first read about periodization. It was revelatory in an almost religious sense. Finally there was a clear…

Jared Hang Chalking Up while Climbing

Problems With Projecting

Tags: , , , , ,

By Steve Bechtel Project climbing – trying a very hard route over and over with the goal of eventually climbing it in one push – is one of the most fundamentally rewarding facets of rock climbing. It drives us to higher grades and teaches all sorts of valuable lessons. But like anything beneficial to us,…

Climbing Notes in Notebook with Pen

Write It Down – The Value of a Training Log

Tags: , , , , , , ,

by Steve Bechtel When I first sit down with a new athlete, the first thing I ask them is where they want to go. The question usually goes like this: “In six months, what do you want to have accomplished?” That part is easy for most of us – the dreaming is not hard to…

Steve Bechtel Dead Lift with Barbell, Photo by Mei Ratz

“Two set of two?” and Other Questions

Tags: , , , , ,

by Steve Bechtel It’s funny the questions you get after an interview. At the end of 2015, I had the great honor of talking to Neely Quinn at Training Beta for a second time, and had a good chat with Kris Hampton for his new podcast that summer. The format is challenging and I felt…

Site Search

Categories