Q+A

CSTV: Q+A Am I Doing Intensive Endurance Intervals Correctly?

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Q+A Which Training Plan Should My Girlfriend and I Do?

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Q+A: Hangboarding, Even For Beginners!?!

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Q: In the Pitch One training plan you call for hangboard training without qualification for even “novice trainees”. I have read in more than one source that hangboard training should not start for novices until about 2 years into climbing. Do your views on this differ from what I thought was the prevailing wisdom on…

Q+A: Hangboards Versus Blocks

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Q: What are your thoughts on hangboarding versus a handheld finger trainer that you hang weights from? Is there a benefit to one or the other or do they produce similar results? M.T.   A: In spirit, both tools are the same. One of the big hopes of people training with weight hung from block-style…

TS Strawberry Roan

Q+A: I’m Strong, But Have No Endurance

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Q: Hello Steve, I bought your newest book – Unstoppable Force -, because, well I want to get stronger ^^. I loved the book, most of the the knowledge and base principles that you share aren’t new for me, and that made me happy. My previous coach (not a climber) trained me with the same…

Q+A: Finger Strength for Older Climbers?

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Q: Hi Steve, I’ve got a question about building finger strength in life’s latter half–as in, after the age of 50. I took many years off climbing, came about five years ago, and I’ve had a hard time rebuilding finger strength. I work out mostly at an indoor bouldering gym and I’ve found that I…

Q+A: Longer Duration Intervals As A Sustainable Part of Base Training?

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Q: Anaerobic Capacity. Do you think longer duration anaerobic intervals at a 1:4 work/ rest ratio can be a sustainable part of a ‘base phase’? Alex Barrows suggests 45 seconds work interval with a 1:4 work rest. In the PCC we used 10 seconds work interval with a 1:5 work to rest. Is the 45…

Q+A: Good at Being Pumped or Good at Avoiding It?

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Q+A: Loading and Progression in Weight Training?

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Q: Hello, I am just beginning your Base Strength 2 program. (I’ve been doing variations of Rippetoe’s programs on and off for years, so this seems like a reasonable place for me to start). I don’t see any detail about loading or progression. For example, in a session that indicates four sets of deadlifts, with…

Q+A: Triphasic Training in Climbing?

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Q: Do you think there is value to incorporating triphasic training principles in climbing? Forearm curls seem to be a place where they could be applied. If yes, when would you add it. I am on a non-linear program with s strength day, power day and power endurance day. I also have bar campus rings…

Q+A: Effective Training Two Days In A Row

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Q: Hey Steve, Wondering how many days on you recommend and if switching between workout types on different days is recommended. -B.H. A: What you did the previous session is the key. Was it a long session? Was it high-intensity or low intensity? Because there are many possible combinations of back-to-back sessions, I built this…

Kevin Wallingford Dead Lift b&w

Q+A: Should I use a belt or straps when weight training?

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