Q+A

Q+A: Effective Training Two Days In A Row

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Q: Hey Steve, Wondering how many days on you recommend and if switching between workout types on different days is recommended. -B.H. A: What you did the previous session is the key. Was it a long session? Was it high-intensity or low intensity? Because there are many possible combinations of back-to-back sessions, I built this…

Kevin Wallingford Dead Lift b&w

Q+A: Should I use a belt or straps when weight training?

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Q+A: Optimum Time Under Tension for Finger Strength

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Q: Hey Steve and Charlie, Alex, and everyone, Thanks again for the great coaching conference last month. So much info my head is still exploding. One thing I didn’t ask or don’t remember covering: What is the best zone to aim for as far as time under tension on the fingerboard? How much per session?…

Kevin Wallingford Dead Lift b&w

Q+A: Training to Failure?

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Q: Thoughts on ‘autoregulation’ methods? Avoidance of failure vs. actively seeking it? Or the same question, differently put: The metabolic or neurological value of ‘that Last Rep’? (e.g. as opposed to, say, the value of the preceding 9, when you are doing sets of 10.) Presumably, advocates of training to failure must think that the…

Maintaining Endurance During Power and Strength cycles

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Hi Guys, Wondering what you are recommending for maintaining endurance during strength or power training cycles? Specifics on type, duration, and mode (i.e. treadwall, etc.) will help. G.S. G, Depending on what type of endurance you are trying to maintain, the recommendations can be pretty wide-ranging. If you are keeping a fairly high level of…

Session Ordering With Multiple Hangboard

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Q: My impression from the book is that a suggested ordering of session types is strength-power-endurance, and these are rotated through during the training cycle. I.e. if you do a strength session, your next training session is power. I also recall Steve saying in a podcast that he suggests doing more strength work during the offseason,…

Optimal Climbing Weight

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Q: Specifically I would like to know more about effective ways to reduce unnecessary muscle mass from the legs. I come from a road bike racing background and so I have more muscle on my thighs and butt than necessary for climbing (or mostly anything besides racing a bicycle) and I would like to slim…

KB Swing vs. Deadlift

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When you say that kettlebell swings are a good hip hinge option, I assume you are talking about HEAVY swings, right? Like sets of only 5-10 reps? If so, how do you manage progression here? It’s not like I can just add a plate to the bell every session. Is there any strength benefit to…

ARC Training and High-Low

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Q: I have been doing a kind of high low thing recently and was wondering how you have been doing your ARC training? I have mainly been traversing because when I do ups and downs it is hard to keep it chilled enough. How do you do it? Cheers Cliff Hi Cliff, The hardest part…

More Block Periodization Explanation

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There was a thread comparing different periodization strategies over at Mountain Project (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization–non-linear-periodization/108438729 ). I wrote this explanation to contrast this model with the classical model. Not sure if it’s necessary here or not…   I remember when I first read about periodization. It was revelatory in an almost religious sense. Finally there was a clear…

I don’t understand the 3-6-9 Hangboard Ladders. How much load? How much should I rest?

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I don’t describe a loading progression in the hangboard ladders because I think it should happen somewhat organically. I have found that time after time climber want to progress the loads on the board much more quickly than they should, and it is almost guaranteed that a finger injury occurs in the last week of…

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