Rachel Speer

Rachel’s Momentum Drills

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By Rachel Speer I’ll be the very first one to admit it: I hate dynos. I would much prefer to figure out a way to do a move statically, even if it takes ten times the energy and strength than it would to just… for lack of a better word… yeet myself up the wall….

Rachel’s Body Tension Drills

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By Rachel Speer Imagine this: you’re climbing on an overhang, gather up your strength and lob for the next hold that puts you in just a bit of a stretched position. You successfully grab the hold, but before you can even begin to move on, your hips sag away from the wall and you find…

Rachel’s Footwork Skills

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By Rachel Speer Last time I wrote an article on skill drills, I talked about the benefits of dedicated practice. The foundation of skill practice should always be footwork.  The overly muscled boulder dude who crushes overhanging roof routes, but gets shut down hard by anything on the slab wall. The doubter tapping their foot…

Polar Skills

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By Rachel Speer When I first started climbing, I learned quickly how to balance my body on the wall, I got stronger, and I rocketed through the grades, improving rapidly. For a few years I coasted on the easy gains until I came upon my first plateau, at the upper end of the 5.11 range. …

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