redpoint climbing

In-Season Training (Power-Endurance Redpointing) – Weekends Only Climbing

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel The vast majority of climbers hold two things in common: They like to send. They have to work.   Short of taking a month off work every time you’re in peak shape, you’ve got to use a training plan that is going to get you to the weekend topped up of fitness…


Tags: , , ,

The 3-Tier Plan is more a structure or philosophy than an actual training program, and could be better described as the “get out of your rut” plan. It underscores the idea that we truly do need to create a base of “persistent” training factors, then build fitness specific to our goal, and then go out…

Rob Pizem, working for the first free ascent of the Frank Zappa Appreciation Society, 5.13+, Escalanta Canyon, CO

In-Season Strength – Program Minimum

Tags: , , , , , ,

These days, climbers are well aware of the need to gain strength in the off-season. Many climbers I hear from spend much of the winter allocating time to the weight room and the hangboard. Where the system can break down is when someone quits strength training cold-turkey to switch to climbing full-time. There’s no arguing…

route climbing strength 1

Route Climbing Strength 1

Tags: , , , ,

The Route Climbing Strength plans are built to increase finger strength, core strength, and overall body tension, with the longer efforts of full routes in mind. This plan is appropriate for boulderers looking for a bit more capacity as well as trad climbers, though the plan emphasizes finger strength at a level that is not…

Site Search