redpoint climbing
3-TIER PLAN: 2023 REVISION
Tags: 3-tier, climbing training, in-season training, redpoint climbing
The 3-Tier Plan is more a structure or philosophy than an actual training program, and could be better described as the “get out of your rut” plan. It underscores the idea that we truly do need to create a base of “persistent” training factors, then build fitness specific to our goal, and then go out…
Route Climbing Strength 1
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, Ladders, redpoint climbing, Training Plans
The Route Climbing Strength plans are built to increase finger strength, core strength, and overall body tension, with the longer efforts of full routes in mind. This plan is appropriate for boulderers looking for a bit more capacity as well as trad climbers, though the plan emphasizes finger strength at a level that is not…
In-Season Strength – Program Minimum
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, Performance, Programming, redpoint climbing, Resistance Training, Route Climbing
These days, climbers are well aware of the need to gain strength in the off-season. Many climbers I hear from spend much of the winter allocating time to the weight room and the hangboard. Where the system can break down is when someone quits strength training cold-turkey to switch to climbing full-time. There’s no arguing…